Paraghelmen — 3

List of Routes to the Summit of Paraghelmen:

1. Paraghelmen via the right edge of the western part of the massif and the counterfort 1B, II
2. Paraghelmen via the left counterfort of the central wall (SW edge) 2A, III, A1
3. Paraghelmen via the center of the wall and SW edge 3B, V, A1
4. Paraghelmen via the right edge of the wall 4B
5. Paraghelmen via the right counterfort of the central wall (SE edge) 2B

variant: Paraghelmen via SE edge and the center of the wall 3B, V

Route 3

3B, V, A1

One of the strongest "threes" in Crimea. In terms of the set of sensations, it is equivalent to "Chelebi Chimney". The route is frequently climbed, but this does not add to its safety:

• old pitons (20–30 years)
• not always in reliable cracks
• even wooden wedges are encountered

Not recommended for beginner climbers or as a warm-up route (on R2, R3, 6–7 rappel lines are noted for some 2–4 m height).

So, the route passes to the left of the center of the wall with an exit to the pre-summit tower via the SW counterfort. The starting point is the left of the 2–3 cracks in the center of the wall. The R1 section leads to a shelf with a hanger bolt.

From R1:

• along the chip (IV−), bypassing the overhang on the left, approach the difficult wall;
• up the wall vertically (10 m, 85°, V) to a narrow shelf with two "markovka" pitons — R2;
• approach 5 m under the overhang;
• pass the overhang through the crack (5 m, 95°, V+A1);
• along the chip (80°, IV+) exit through 15 m to a narrow, uncomfortable shelf under a vertical chimney.

For organizing reliable insurance, pitons may be required (!!!).

up the difficult, narrow chimney 15–20 m (the first climber goes without a backpack), then exit to its left (!!!) wall and up the moderate rocks 15–20 m.

The R2–R3 sections contain many old pitons, some of which are in very poor condition.

Further, moving 35–40 m along moderate rocks to the left and up, exit to the counterfort.

Up the easy rocks of the counterfort, ascend to the pre-summit tower and then through the gap (insurance!!!) exit to the yayla.

Our ascent: September 30, 1995; 3 hours. Equipment:

• friends (recommended)
• set of stoppers
• quickdraws (6–10 pcs.)
• sling for blocking pitons
• pitons + hammer — recommended

We had enough with a set of stoppers and a friend, 6 quickdraws, but this is not an indicator. We really wanted leaf-shaped pitons for organizing R3.

Known Variations:

from R1, up the chip, bypassing the overhang on the right. A possible station is in the inner corner. Further, moving up — left along very difficult (visually, not less than VV+), vertical rocks, it is possible to approach the chimney — R3.

We did not climb this variation, but there are memories of its existence from Maxim Robuk (Kharkov–Krivoy Rog), dated 1992–1993, and a ladder taken from there.

Its condition and the possibility of organizing insurance are currently unknown to us.

P.S. From the middle of the route, the hanger bolts marked with red color, belonging to Fantik's fourth route, are clearly visible. For those who want to get acquainted with this route and warm up well — it's a three for you.