On the right side of the «green corner», 5a (route by V. Timofeev, 1981)
The western part of the massif and the most complex southeastern wall are separated by a large internal corner, descending from the summit plateau and named Green due to the moss covering it.
The route starts at the base of the couloir descending from the Green internal corner.
From the alpinist camps, proceed about 150 m towards Baydarskie Vorota until the beginning of
the ascent to the Green corner.
From the road, start moving up the scree towards the steep wall (R0: 100 m, 30°, easy).
On the section R1–R2 — overcome a small wall, move right along the ledge to the large internal corner, turning into a sheer chimney on the left side of the slab. Up the slab to the top of the outcrop:
- 8 m, 75°, IV
- 10 m, 40°, easy
- 20 m, 75°, IV
On the section R2–R3 — first up 5 m under a small overhanging rock along the slab, and then, overcoming it, up and slightly left along the steep wall 30 m:
- 20 m, 80°, V
- 20 m, 75°, IV
On the section R3–R4 — slightly left, and then up to the exit to the horizontal ledge at the base of the Green corner (R3–R4: 80 m, 60–70, III).
On the section R4–R5:
- Initially right and up, and then 25 m up the internal corner under the overhanging wall. It is climbed directly.
- Further along the internal corner to a 10-meter vertical chimney (R4–R5: 50 m, 80°, V).
On the section R5–R6 — first up the chimney, then up the slab with a small crack. Further right to a large crevice filled with grass (R5–R6: 40 m, 85°, VI).
On the section R6–R7 — above the crevice, a small overhang. It is climbed on the right side. Further up, first along a 7-meter internal corner, and then along the slab under large cornices. They are climbed first from right to left, then up, and at the end a small traverse to the right (R6–R7: 40 m, 80°, V).
On the section R7–R8 — first up a 25-meter chimney. Further up a sheer slab, and then a small but complex internal corner (R7–R8: 40 m, 80°, V+).
On the final section of the route — up and right along the rocks of medium complexity to the exit to the summit plateau (R8–summit: 40 m, 70°, III).
The length of the main part of the route is about 400 m. The time taken to complete the route is 4–5 hours.
P.S. Vladimir Timofeev — Master of Sports of the USSR in alpinism and rock climbing, multiple champion and prize-winner of the USSR alpinism championships.