Sokol — 25

Bodun 5Б difficulty category (A. Sergeev, also known as "Kommunist")img-0.jpeg

Bodun 1st rope

R0–R1: 25–30 m, 6c, A2+. Even, interesting slabby artificial terrain with some 5c–6c climbing sections. The first few meters have a risk of falling onto the belayer from a considerable height. After the second bolt (third one), traverse right to a poorly visible piton, then go up, aiming for the left part of the cornice. The belay station is on two bolts.

R1–R2: 25 — 30 m, 5B, A0. Re-clip through bolts and pitons up into the left corner of the cornice, then traverse right and up with your own protection. The belay station is on two bolts and a piton.

R2–R3: 35 m, 5B. Up the overgrown crack, then move left across the slab 3–5 m to an internal corner. Protection is your own + bolts and pitons. The belay station is in the internal corner on two bolts and a piton.

R3–R4: 50 m, 5B. Protection is on bolts and pitons + your own. The belay station is on a bolt and a piton in the internal corner.

R4–R5: 30–35 m, 6A. The belay station is in the internal corner under an overhanging wall.

R5–R6: 25 m, 6C.

  • Through the overhang (two bolts)
  • Careful climbing to the top
  • The belay station is on the edge of the yayla on two bolts.

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Bodun 2nd rope

A 50–60 m rope, a set of nuts and cams, small and medium nuts work well, 20 quickdraws, 2 large and 3–4 small slings, 3 étriers, hammers, various pitons, wires, "Irbis" type carabiners (for small bolt hangers), skyhooks for the terrain.

Overall impression:

A good, challenging 5B with a 6c section on the first rope. The time required is around 6–8 hours. The route doesn't allow you to relax from the first to the last meter.

Sources

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