Crimea, Paragilmen. "Through the Center of the Wall" Route 4A)

The route goes through the corners of the center of the wall, veering right in the upper third, leading to the "Shovel" summit. The route is significantly more challenging than the classic 3A route. It starts in the same place, but after the first corner, it doesn't go left, instead following the system of internal corners towards the cornice with a white spot underneath.

"The Triple through the Chimney" 3A route - passage to the left; "Through the Center of the Wall" 3B (4A) route - passage to the right

Route Description:

0–1. Ascend sloping rocks to the left and enter an internal corner, then continue up the corner to a narrow chimney.

• Bypass the chimney by traversing to the right
• Then ascend
• Return to the left, into the system of corners

(It's possible to go straight through the chimney, but it's significantly harder.) Continue up the corner to a ledge with a belay station. There are bolts and pitons. 43 m IV (10 m V)

1–2. Crux pitch. Ascend parallel cracks to an overhanging boulder and bypass it on the left. The cracks are wide, so it's advisable to have several friends or hexes 6–10 cm (camlots 2, 3).

Continue up easier rocks to a cornice, where old bolts can be found. The cornice is protected by old pitons a meter apart, but after the cornice, there's more climbing to be done. A steep crack leads to a ledge with a belay station and 2 pitons.

30 m (V+A1)

R2–R3 From the station, ascend to the right and up a fissure. Protection is easily organized, but the climbing is complex in some places, leading to a ledge with a belay station. There are bolts and a piton. 35 m (IV–V)

A very challenging section in the middle of the route

R3–R4 From the station, move 5 m to the right and ascend a crack, then an internal corner, to reach the top of the "Shovel". Belay station on a tree. 50 m III–IV

Upper part of the route R4–R5

From the "Shovel" summit, follow a horizontal ridge to the yayla. 70 m (I–II)

Exit onto a simple ridge

The route is demanding. Pitons and large friends are required. Belay stations need to be reinforced with personal gear.

"Through the Center of the Wall" 3B (4A) route (blue line on the photo)

Recommended Gear:

• nuts
• medium and large friends
• anchor pitons
• rock hammer
• 50–60 m rope
• 12–14 long slings
• belay loops
• lightweight ladder (not unnecessary)

Average Time to Complete: 5–7 hours.

Tatyana Senchenko, a climber, shared her personal opinion: "I've climbed around ten Crimean 5th category routes, but this 3B/4A route seemed more challenging than some of the 5th category routes I've done..."

Photos by Tatyana Senchenko. Source: alpinist.biz