Report

on the first ascent of the Southern tower of the Mirrotvorcev Peak, 3411 m via the Southern ridge. Approximately — category 2B. Completed by a group of climbers from the Mountain Sports Federation of the Republic of South Ossetia on July 14, 2012, led by Tedeev Tamerlan Taimurazovich. The ascent is dedicated to:

• the 20th anniversary of the introduction of Peacekeeping Forces
• that stopped the war on the territory of the Republic of South Ossetia. Address: Republic of South Ossetia, Tskhinval, A. Dzhioev Avenue, 114, Tedeev_t@mail.ru +79284848861

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, section number in the classifier 2.8:, upper reaches of the Cheselt-don river south of the Main Caucasian Ridge, between the Zekara-don gorge to the west and the Strikom gorge to the east

Report

On the first ascent of v. Novgorodskogo Yu. (3462 m) via the Western ridge. Approximately 1B rock. Completed by the mountaineers of the Mountain Club SKGMI "Krokus" from Vladikavkaz on May 23, 2009. Under the leadership of Levkovsky Yuri Vasilyevich.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type: rock
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Tsadzhitudon river valley, 2.8
3. Peak, route: Novgorodskogo Yu. (3462 m), Western ridge
4. Expected category of difficulty: 1B rock, first ascent
5. Route characteristics:

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Tepli region, classification section number 2.8.
2. Pakota North (3505 m) – from the North.
3. Proposed 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route height difference — 350 m (from point R0). Total route length — about 500 m. Length of sections with 4 category of difficulty — 10 m. Average steepness:

• key sections — 70°
• entire route — 30°

6. Hooks left on the route — none.

Photo 1. General view of peak 3933 m (“Pamyati Karmadontsev”). The first ascent route is marked. Photo taken from the middle part of the Kauridon gorge. MACLUTAE 1:400000 Photo 2. Panoramic view of the area. Routes marked:

• number 1 – to Kaydzhany Mal. via North ridge, category 1B;
• number 2 – to Kaydzhany Severnaya via North ridge, category 2A;
• number 3 – first ascent route to peak 3933 m (“Pamyati Karmadontsev”). Also marked:

1. Pik Polyakova Yuriya (4271 m) via the central North-West buttress, cat. III.
2. Leader: Egorin S. V.
3. Caucasus. Bokovoy Range. Kazbek-Djimara massif.
4. Section number in KTMGV 2.8.

Route Description

Ascent Data Sheet

1. Caucasus. Bokovoy Range. Kazbek-Djimara massif. Section number in Classification 2.8.
2. Pik Polyakova Yuriya 4271 m (in the 2001 Classifier, item 2.8.81—peak 4005 m), via the central North-West buttress.
3. Category 2A is proposed, first ascent.
4. The nature of the route is combined.

65. Severnaia via the Eastern ridge

The route is a combined one by A. Meshcheryakov, category 3A, fig. 88, 89, 101, 102. Length 700–800 m, duration 7–9 hours. From Vladikavkaz (group of 2–8 people), take a bus for 1.5–2 hours to the village of Kharisdzhin. From the village, walk 1.5–2 km upstream along the gorge road to the right tributary of Fiagdon - the Tsadzhiau River. Cross the river and turn right, ascending via a serpentine trail on the left bank until the gorge turns left to the south. Here, cross the Tsadzhiau River and follow the trail of an old overgrown road on the right bank to approach a mountain lake. The base camp is located on the lake's shore. The journey from the road takes 2.5–3 hours, and from the village of Kharisdzhin - 3–4 hours. From the lake, follow the wide, even bottom of the gorge to reach the terminal moraine of the Tsadzhiau Glacier. From here, there are two options to ascend to the Eastern shoulder of the Eastern ridge of Severnaia peak. First option:

• Turn right on the moraine and ascend via scree and easy, crumbling rocks on the right slope to the Southeast buttress of the Eastern ridge.
• Turn right here and ascend via easy, crumbling rocks and scree on the Southeast buttress to the Eastern shoulder of the Eastern ridge. Second option:
• Proceed along the right moraine upstream through the gorge for several hundred meters, approaching an overhanging rock on the right. A base camp is possible under this rock. The journey from the lake takes 1.5–2 hours.
• From the rock, ascend upstream through the gorge and, bypassing the base of the Southeast buttress of the Eastern ridge, turn right.

Peak 25th Anniversary of SKGMI (~3840 m)

from the east 2B + 3A cat. diff. The peak is located at the extreme eastern end of the Central Caucasus, in the Kazbek group of peaks of the Lateral Ridge. The peak is the easternmost summit in the Northeast spur from the Kazbek Firn Plateau, consisting consecutively of the peaks: Peak "4005 m", Iriston Peak (3969 m), Chach-khokh (4098 m), Peak "3850 m", South Kaijany (3916 m), North Kaijany (3969 m), Peak 25th Anniversary of SKGMI (~3840 m). The massif of the peak and its eastern spurs separate the river basins - tributaries of the Terek: to the south - Koba-khi and upstream of its tributary - Chach-khi, to the north - the Belaya River. On the western and eastern slopes of the peak, one small dying cirque glacier has survived. The massif is composed mainly of clay shales, with separate outcrops of intrusive rocks. The slopes are significantly covered with talus. The first ascent was made by a group of climbers from the North Caucasus Institute of Mining and Metallurgy led by I. Suzhaev in 1956 via the simplest route from the Chach valley (2A cat. diff.). In subsequent years, ascents from the Chach valley were made repeatedly. In July 1971, a group of climbers from Ordzhonikidze (SO ASSR) led by R.P. Proskuryakov made the first ascent to the peak from the east, from the Belaya River valley. A description of the route is given below.

The route to the summit of Pik Skryabina via the Northeast Ridge (first ascent). The summit elevation is 3456 m.

Introduction

Pik Skryabina is located in a short spur of the Main Caucasian Range between the peaks of Khalatsa and Zekkara in the upper Zrug gorge. The distance from the village of Nar to the foot of the mountain is 12 km. The Transcaucasian Highway rescue team is based in Nar. The Zrug gorge is in a border zone, so it is necessary to obtain permits in advance. 10 km from Nar, on the riverbank, there are ruins of a 10th-century temple on a hill. It is possible to spend the night in a hut near the temple. In the summer, ascents to the surrounding peaks can be made from the hut.

Ascent Details

1. North Caucasus, Zrug gorge, Main Caucasian Range, classification point – 2.8.
2. Name of the peak: Pik Skryabina, route: via the Northeast Ridge.
3. Proposed category: 3B.
4. Route type: rock.

1. Rocky ridge; section number in Classification 2.8
2. Tbau Eastern (2832 m), via the Eastern ridge of the South-Eastern bastion.
3. Proposed category: 5B; first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route height difference: 912 m (by GPS). Route length: 1550 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category: 135 m. Average steepness:

• main part of the route: 75°;
• entire route: 65°.

6. Pitons left on the route: total – 9 pcs., of which 7 are hammered. Pitons used on the route:

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus; Rocky Range; Classification section number - 2.8.
2. Tbau (C-3) – 2980 m; from the south along the North-West ridge.
3. 1B category of difficulty; first ascent.
4. Nature of the route – rocky.
5. Route elevation gain – 700 m. The length is about 2200 m. The elevation gain of the wall part of the route is 200 m. The steepness of the key sections of the route is up to 60°. The average steepness of the entire route is 30°.
6. Pitons left on the route – none.
7. Team's walking hours – 5 hours, days – 1.