5th cat. diff. free climbing 26.10.82 sect. 519.14 197a 11th Championship of the Caucasus Territorial Administration of Alpine Camps 1982 Rock Climbing Category

Report

Ascent Logbook

1. Type of ascent: ice and snow climb.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Bezengi.
3. Peak Shota Rustaveli, 4960 m, via the north face.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: Total height difference of the route 1340 m, height difference of the wall section 1180 m, average steepness of the wall section 48°, route length 2400 m, wall section length 1660 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 1355 m.
6. Pitons used: Ice pitons for belay 257, ITO 6, rock pitons for belay 12.
7. Total climbing hours: 24.

Shkhara

via the northern edge, cat. 5B Team M.G.S. "SPARTAK" July 13-18, 1965 Coach and leader - SHATAEV V.N. Shkhara northern edge

Ascent

July 13. From the alpine camp, the path goes up along the trail and the Besengi glacier moraine to Misses-Kosh. We set out fairly early (5:00) hoping to rest well at the "Austrian" campsite and get to know the character of Shkhara. No wind. Only the uларs disturb the peace with their morning songs. The path is familiar only to the leader; the others are going to Shkhara for the first time. Turning left from the confluence of the Eastern and Western branches of the Besengi glacier along the coastal moraine, we approached the red rocks, from which we reached the campsite in half an hour. Gusty winds were shaking the tent of a group of Leningraders climbing Shkhara via the Eastern edge - cat. 4B. We set up the tent behind a rock, and while preparing lunch, Shataev-Karchewski went out to examine the approach route and the exit to the edge.

Ascent Record

1. Category — snow and ice climb
2. Main Caucasus Range, Bezengi valley
3. Shkhara Main via the ice board on the North face
4. Proposed — 5B category difficulty, first ascent
5. Height difference — 1800 m, length — 2790 m, length of sections with IV–VI category difficulty — 888 m, including about 130 m of VI category difficulty. Average steepness of main sections — 44°
6. Equipment used on the route: ice screws — 197, rock pitons — 4
7. Climbing hours for ascent — 24, days — 1.5
8. All overnight stays on snow platforms

Report

Championship of the Caucasian Territorial National Management of Alpine Camps on the ascent to the summit Glavnaya Shkhara (5200 m) via the North wall (first ascent) by the team of alpine camp “Bezengi” team captain Kraynov I.P. team coach Kudinov I.B. August 1–5, 1983 Alpine camp “Bezengi”:

All-Union Council

Alplager "Bezengi"

The ascent is dedicated to the bright memory of Igor Alexandrovich DUDCHENKO

Caucasus

Western Shkhara (5057 m) via the center of the North face

1. BLANKOVSKY A.K., Master of Sports — "Zenit" — team leader
2. LEVIN A.S., Master of Sports — "Trud" — participant
3. KRAINOV I.P., CMS — "Spartak"
4. MELENTYEV V.I., CMS — "Zenit" 1980

Moscow City Council

VSS "TRUD" TRAVERSING THE BEZENGI WALL WITH ASCENT TO SHKHAra VIA THE NORTHERN RIDGE 1960 Leader: Gavrilov B. A. Participants:

• Moiseev Yu. A.
• Mosunov A. A.
• Chereshkin D. S. In July-August 1960, a gathering of qualified climbers from the Moscow City Council of VSS "Trud" was held at the "Bezengi" alpine camp. The plan included participating in the Moscow championship in the traverse class. The Bezengi Wall was chosen as the object, whose traverse with ascent to Shkhara via the northern ridge had only been done once before in 1948 by a group from VSS "Spartak" led by Honored Master of Sports Abalakov V. M.

www.alp-federation.ru

2. Group Composition and Support

The mountaineering group that completed the traverse consisted of athletes with the 1st sports category from the MGS DSO "Trud" gathering, held at the "Bezengi" alpine camp:

1. Saratov Yu.S. — group leader,
2. Beda A.G.,
3. Golubkov B.S.,
4. Daruga V.K. Three of the group members had experience climbing in the Bezengi region in previous seasons. All participants underwent joint training during the pre-camp period and completed training ascents:

• 3B — Ullu-Auz-Bashi
• 4B — Main Jangitaus via the northern edge, category of complexity in the 1964 season.

Russian Championship in Alpinism 2020. Class of Altitudinal-Technical Ascents.

Report on the Traverse of Krumkol (4688 m) – Dykhtau Gl. (5205 m), via Route 6B cat. dif. by the Combined Team of Voronezh Region and Moscow Region for the Period from July 15 to July 22, 2020

I. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Dmitrienko E. V., MS
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants	Susloparov P. A., CMS, Maximov D. S., CMS, Vasiliev I. V., CMS
1.3	Full Name of Coach	Bolkovoy E. V.
1.4	Organization	Alpinism Federation of Moscow Region

TO THE MAIN JUDICIAL COMMISSION OF THE ALPINISM FEDERATION OF THE USSR Report on the ascent to the summit of Dalar via the northeastern wall with an exit to the summit tower via the northern edge, as entered in the 1969 USSR Alpine Championship by the team from the Leningrad Mountain Sports Committee.

Team captain and ascent leader — B. KORABLIN

Leningrad, 1969 Northeastern wall of Dalar peak. Due to various reasons, STEPANOV V.V. and CHERNOSLIVIN Yu.I. were unable to travel to the Caucasus this year, and therefore they did not join the assault group. KORSHUNOV D.M. could not be replaced at the time the team started the ascent (he was working as an instructor), and VELIKANOV V.P. was included in the main team.