Ascent Passport

1 Ascent class — combined 2 Ascent area — Tian Shan, Kungey Alatau ridge 3 Peak — Sadko, height — 3970 m, route via North ridge, rocky 4 Presumed category of difficulty — 2B 5 Route characteristics: — height difference — 500 m — average steepness — 30° — sections of 5th category of difficulty — none 6 Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

1 Ascent class — combined 2 Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Kungey Alatau ridge 3 Peak — Suvenir, height 3880 m, route — via the Northern edge from the Suvenir glacier, combined. 4 Estimated complexity category — 2A 5 Route characteristics:

• height difference — 400 m
• average steepness — 45°
• sections of 5th complexity category — none 6 Pitons driven:

70 Kungey Ala-Too Range Northern Tien Shan

Choktal Massif 2nd Eastern Peak

• 4771 m
• Choktal Massif
• Category 3B difficulty Description compiled by: Kholodniak A.M. General information about the climbing area: the Choktal massif is the highest point of the Kungey Ala-Too range in the Northern Tien Shan. Being far from major alpine camps, the area is rarely visited by climbers. The first attempts to explore this area date back to 1937, when three alpine instructors climbed the 2nd Western peak via the Eastern ridge. The second attempt was made in 1950, when a DSO "LOKOMOTIV" expedition led by Chekmarev visited the Choktal area. The participants of this expedition conquered:
• the 2nd Eastern peak via the Western ridge;

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude class.
2. Central Tian-Shan, South Inylchek glacier.
3. Peak Khan-Tengri via the South-Southwest ridge.
4. 5B category of difficulty, previous ascent was over 3 years ago.
5. Elevation gain — 2610 m, route length — 2840 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 2010 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 47°, including 45 m of 6 category of difficulty with 70° steepness.
6. Hooks left on the route (not removed) — none. Previously driven hooks used and not removed — none.
7. Team's climbing hours: 40 and days – 6.

Report

On the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak via the eastern counterfort of the northern wall from the North Inylchek glacier. Team of the CS "Lokomotiv"

Conventions

• — — Route 1964 of the team DSO "Burevestnik"
• — — — Route 1970 of the team DSO "Lokomotiv"

I. Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent object

A. Geography of the area

Khan-Tengri peak is located in the Tengri-Tag range, the second highest range of Tian Shan. The range is stretched in the latitudinal direction and serves as a boundary between the North and South Inylchek glaciers. Khan-Tengri peak is the most significant summit in the range, noticeably standing out among other peaks. The lower part of Khan-Tengri is composed of dark-colored limestones and shales, and the upper part is made of light marble. The boundary of the rocks forming the peak is very visible on the northern wall. The North Inylchek glacier is relatively flat and less dissected in its upper part. In the area of Khan-Tengri peak, it reaches an altitude of 4000 m above sea level.

Passport

Ascent to Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m) via the center of the North face.

1. Ascent category: high-altitude
2. Ascent area: Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights: center of the North face, height 6995 m
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference 2600 m, average steepness 55°, length of complex section 710 m
5. Number of hooks driven: rock 278, ice 58, bolted —
6. Number of nights and their characteristics: 13 on dug-out platforms, 5 of which were sitting
7. Number of travel hours: 119
8. Team name: Team of CS DSO "Spartak"

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge: Central Tien Shan, Tengri Tag.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak Chapayeva, 6371, via the Western part of the South face.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 2371 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category – 2050 m, average slope – 55°.
6. Pitons hammered in: | | rock | ice | bolt |

ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. Ascent class — technical II. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge III. Peak — "Burevestnik" peak, 4360 m, ascent route — via the Eastern ridge IV. Estimated complexity category 4A V. Route characteristics: height difference 764 m, length of sections with 4-5 cat. diff. 295 m, average steepness 51° VI. Pitons driven: for rock protection — 31, ice — 0, bolted — 0 VII. Number of climbing hours — 12

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Teskey Ala-Too range, Jety-Oguz gorge
3. Peak — Peak Burevestnik, 4360 m, ascent route — via North-Eastern ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category 4B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 514 m, length of sections IV–V cat. diff. — 320 m, average steepness 55°
6. Pitons driven: rock protection — 33, ice — 2, bolted — 0
7. Number of travel hours — 14

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.