• Climbing area: Central Caucasus, Lateral Ridge, Krumkol glacier valley. KMGV section number: 2.5
• Peak: 4443 via the Southwest couloir and Northwest ridge.
• Category of complexity: proposed 4A category, first ascent.
• Route character: combined.
• Height difference: about 1000 m.
• Route length: about 1500 m, including:
  • length of rock sections IV — 25 m,
  • rock sections III — 45 m,
  • ice sections with a slope of at least 40° — 200 m.
• Number of pitons used:

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the Demchenko-named CSKA team

To the summit of Prividenie (Ghost) 3809 m

Central Caucasus, Koshtan-krest ridge (43°2′37.71″ N, 43°16′25.86″ E) via the Northern slope First ascent, presumably category 2B Zaryaev V.V. – Galimzyanov T.R.

Participants of the ascent

1. Team leader – Zaryaev Vladimir Valerievich¹ 1st sports category Address: 117465, Moscow, Profsoyuznaya str., 156, bld. 1, apt. 384.

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Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus. Sugansky Ridge, section number according to Classification 2.6.
2. Agibalova West (3770 m) — via the South Edge.
3. Proposed 2B cat. difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route height difference — 230 m. Total route length — 285 m. Length of sections 4–5 cat. difficulty — 27 m. Steepness of key sections — up to 80°. Average steepness of the entire route — 45°.
6. Hooks left on the route — none. Used on the route placed elements — 12.

1. Climbing category: rock climbing
2. Climbing area: Caucasus: 2.6: Sugansky Ridge
3. Peak, route: traverse of Agibalova peaks (West-East towers) – Akritov.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 3A rock: semi-independent
5. Route characteristics: height difference — about 900 m, route length — 1050 m, section lengths: 4th category of difficulty — 25 m, 3rd category of difficulty — 210 m, 2nd category of difficulty — 150 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 65°
6. Equipment used: pitons — 4 pcs., chocks — 12 pcs., "friends" — 2 pcs.
7. Number of walking hours (days): 10/1

1. Climbing category: rock.
2. Region: Caucasus, 2.6, Sugansky Ridge.
3. Peak, route: Aikhva Severnaia, 3735 m, via West ridge and inner corner.
4. Estimated category: 3A rock, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 600 m, route length — 550 m, section lengths:
   • 4th category — 35 m
   • 3rd category — 70 m
   • 2nd category — 240 m, average steepness of main route part — 50°, total route — 45°
6. Pitons driven: rock — 4 — on the tower.

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Sugan Range, classification section number – 2.6.
2. Aikhva North (3735 m); via the West face. (“dollar”).
3. Proposed category: 3A; first ascent.
4. Route character — rock.
5. Route height difference – 355 m (by GPS). Route length – 715 m. Steepness of key sections – up to 93°. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty – 2 m.
6. Hooks left on the route – none.

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT AYKHVA UZLOVAIA, PROPOSED CATEGORY 2A TEAM MAK "FRILINE" November 3, 2018

I. Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport.

1. Class of winter ascents.
2. Caucasus, Digoria, Sugan Range.
3. Galdor Glavny via the Southeast wall.
4. Complexity category 5B.
5. Wall section height difference — 380 m. Wall section length — 500 m. Length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 170 m. Length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 20 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 73°.

Galdor Centralny, 3980 m, via the South Buttress Wall, Caucasus, Sugan Range. Strebeyev V.N., August 18, 1995

Passport

1). Technical category 2). Caucasus, Digoria, Sugan Range 3). Galdor Centralny via the S buttress wall (3980) 4). Proposed — 3B cat. diff. combined 5). Height difference 1100 m, length 1300 m, section lengths:

• 3A — 3B cat. diff. — 90 m (buttress),
• 4A cat. diff. — 30 m (inner corner, "Rusty Wall").

Gülchi

The Gülchi massif (4477 m) consists of the peaks Gülchi and Rtsy­vash­ki. It is located in the western part of the Sugansky Ridge, between the peak of Sugan­Tau (located east of the Rtsy­vash­ki pass, to which the Southeast ridge of Gülchi descends) and the peak of Komsomol Ukrainy (to which the North ridge of Rtsy­vash­ki approaches). From under the wall of the Southwest shoulder of Gülchi in the Akhsu gorge depart:

• Southwest ridge with the peak Akhsu,
• from the East shoulder to the East Rtsy­vash­ki glacier descends a steep rocky edge. Between the southeast and south ridges of Gülchi lies the Akhsu glacier, feeding the Akhsu river, and in a small corrie under the southern slopes of the peak Akhsu - a small glacier Maly Akhsu, the flow of which is a tributary of the Akhsu river. From the summit tower of Gülchi to the northwest departs a practically uninterrupted ice-covered ridge of the main massif Gülchi, ending with a small two-humped peak Rtsy­vash­ki. Beyond Rtsy­vash­ki, the ridge of the massif:
• turns north,
• descends to the ice saddle,