Activity Feed
Route Description: ЮВ кф.
SSummitMateDescription of the first ascent of category 4A route to the Western summit of peak Kavkaz via the South-Eastern counterfort.
- Climbing type — rock climbing
- Central Caucasus. Shkhelda gorge (Double Glacier area)
- Peak Kavkaz 4037 m via the SE buttress.
- Difficulty category — 4A
- Route characteristics: a) elevation gain — 320 m; b) length of section R1–R2 — 40 m; c) average steepness — 60–65°
- Number of pitons hammered — 26 pcs.
- Climbing hours — 14 (including approach through Double Glacier)
First ascent of the unnamed peak (3593 m) in the Adyl-Su gorge via the northern slope and western edge, category 1B complexity.
Unnamed peak 3593 m (p. Kaluga) via N slope and W ridge
PASSPORT
- Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su gorge
- Unnamed peak (p. Kaluga) 3593 m via N slope and W ridge
- Proposed as Category 1B first ascent
- Route is combined
- Height difference 220 m Route length 400 m
- Movement time 11 hours
- Leader — Cheresku I.D. CMS
Route Description: ЮВ гребню
SSummitMateAscent to the summit of Kogubtay-Bashi (3821 m), route description, terrain features, and necessary preparations for climbers.
Kogutai-Bashi 3821 m.
Footnotes
-
5. Korymad The ascent to the base camp is notable for its approach through a picturesque gorge. The further route involves using the "3mbpye" (Russian slang, untranslatable) to climb up the rock wall. The path starts with a steep ascent, entailing ladder climbing right from the start. The view from the top provides an impressive panorama. Initially, the route involves ascending to the rocky outcrops of Korymal'cy (on its eastern slope) ↩
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMateDescription of 1Б category route to Maly Kogutai summit via Western ridge from "Baksan" alp camp in 2 days.
- Maly Kogutai via Western Ridge (Category 1B route) From the “Baksan” alpine camp (group 4 — 20 people), head up the road in the Baksan valley. Before reaching the “Itkol” hotel, turn left and cross the Baksan River on a bridge to reach the narzan springs. From the springs, turn left and cross the Kogutaika River. From there, turn right and ascend a steep trail through the forest along the left bank of the Kogutaika. Above the forest, the trail continues through meadows; then it crosses a stream and ascends along its right bank to a meadow with a large rock split into two parts, mentioned in route 66. Set up a bivouac on the meadow. The journey from the “Baksan” alpine camp takes 2.5–3 hours. The path from the meadow (without backpacks) to the saddle on the Northern ridge of Bolshoy Kogutai is described in route 60. From the initial bivouac on the large meadow, it takes 3 hours. From the saddle:
- descend via scree and a snowy slope to the Bolshoy Kogutai glacier;
- traverse the glacier to the col on the Western ridge of Maly Kogutai peak, which is an extension of the Northeast ridge of Donguzorun peak;
- cross a snow bridge over a bergschrund;
- ascend a short, steep snowy slope to the col on the Western ridge of Maly Kogutai peak. From the saddle, it takes 2–2.5 hours. From the col:
- turn left;
Route Description: В гребню
SSummitMateAscent to the summit of Koiavgan via the Eastern Ridge, a combined route of 3A category of difficulty, description of the path from the Alpiniad base "Dzhailyk".
10. Koyavgan via the East Ridge (combined route, by A. Baturova, category III complexity, fig. 1, 2).
From the “Dzhailyk” alpine camp (a group of 4 people) descend right down the road on the right side of the Adyrsu gorge. Cross the Adyrsu River via the bridge and approach the Jalovchat stream, then turn left off the road and ascend via the left bank of the stream to the left lateral moraine of the Jalovchat tributary valley, to the right of the East Ridge of Koyavgan peak. Along the moraine on the left bank of the Jalovchat stream, bypassing rock wall outcrops on the right, reach the tongue of the Jalovchat Glacier. From the “Dzhailyk” alpine camp, it takes 2–3 hours. From the glacier tongue, turn left and ascend a steep scree slope with short ice and snow sections to approach the left side of the lower rock belt on the right side of the East Ridge of Koyavgan peak. To the left of the rock belt, from the col of the East Ridge with a sharp gendarme in the center, descends:
- a steep Central ice-and-snow couloir,
- with a diamond-shaped rock outcrop in its middle section. From the scree slope, to the right of the Central couloir, ascend 30 m leftward along an ice-and-snow slope alongside the rock belt. Then directly upwards via moderately difficult rocks in a not clearly defined steep 30-meter couloir (pitons for protection). Continue ascending 40 m rightward via easy rocks to the top of the rock belt. From here, ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope on the East Ridge, to the right of the Central couloir, upwards and rightwards (possible rockfall) to the left side of a long narrow rock outcrop. Then ascend via easy, heavily fragmented rocks on the left side of the narrow outcrop to its top. From there, ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope (pitons for protection) to approach the right side of the rock ascent on the East Ridge. Via heavily fragmented, easy rocks on the right side of the ascent:
- ascend 30 m straight up,
Route Description: С кф. В гребня
SSummitMateDescription of the route to the summit of Koi-Avgan via the northern spur of the eastern ridge, including the approach to the route and details of navigating challenging terrain.
The description is compiled based on materials from the training part of Ulutau a/l.
Description of the Approach to the Route
From the AGЛК "Jailyk", cross the bridge over the Adyr-Su river downstream. Behind the bridge, to the left near the source, a trail begins, going through the forest up the slope in the direction of the Jalovchat lake. Climbing along the trail:
- Cross to the left (green) moraine, leading to the N. counterfort of the E. ridge in Koy-Avgan.
- Continue ascent along the moraine.
- The N. counterfort of the E. ridge is dissected by a large couloir in its lower part.
- Ascend along the green moraine until the upper part of the counterfort dissected by the couloir starts to overhang on the left.
- Here, turn left and ascend up the slope to the rocks of the counterfort, leaving the couloir to the right.
- The start of the route is in the middle (between two rocky spurs) of the lower part of the bastion, which is crowned with a rocky tooth and connected by a narrow ridge to the main part of the counterfort.
Route Description: центру С склона
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit of Koi-Avgan via the northern slope, rated as 3rd category of difficulty, highlighting key sections and hazards.
Koy Avgan Bashi
in the center of the North slope, category 3B, first ascent AGLK "Dzhailyk" Virchenko Yu.P. — CMS Skornyakov A.N. — CMS Senior coach — Popov V.P.
Route Description
The route goes along the snow-ice slope, lying between rocky outcrops straight up to the snow pre-summit. Then from the pre-summit along the ridge in the southern direction to the summit Koy-Avgan. The beginning of the route is near the right side of the bergschrund crossing the base of the North slope. After overcoming the bergschrund, move straight up the snow-ice slope towards the saddle between two rocky outcrops. Along the left side of the lower rocky outcrop. The average steepness is 30°. The length of this section is 800 m. From the saddle between the outcrops, move straight up along the right side of the upper rocky outcrop towards the pre-summit. In this area, the slope is usually pure ice with a steepness of 40°–45°. The length of this section is 400 m. Belay through ice screws.
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateDescription of the traverse of the peaks Sovetsky Voyn - Kezgen - Kubasanty, category 2B difficulty level, with photographs and route diagram.
в. Советский воин — в. Кезген — в. Кубасанты! img-0.jpeg Taken on July 2, 1986 at 6:00 PM from the southern spur of в. Кубасанты. Camera "Salut-C", lens "Mir-26B", F=45 mm. ROUTE SCHEME IN LIMB VOLA U I A A:
- Кубасанты
- Советский воин
- 2Б кат. сл., traverse
View of the Ирикчат gorge from в. Череткара
Route Description: З гребню
SSummitMateDescription of a winter ascent to Kurmychi peak (4045 m) via the Western ridge from VTsSPS pass, category of difficulty 1B.
293 p. No 15 cm
Ascent Log
| Peak Name | — Kurmychi |
|---|---|
| Mountain Region | — Caucasus, Kabardino-Balkaria |
| Route Characteristics | — Combined |
| Peak Height | — 4045 m |
| Route | — From VTsSPS Pass via the Western Ridge |
| Difficulty Category | — 1B (winter) |
| Elevation Gain | — 435 m (from the pass to the summit) |
Route Description: баст. С стены
SSummitMateThe ascent to Peak Burovsky via the Central Bastion of the north wall in 1962, a Category 5B route, with a detailed description of the path and technical characteristics of the sections.
Report on the ascent via the Central Bastion of the northern wall of Peak Burovsky (via the center of the bastion)
List of participants in the assault group
TABLE of the main characteristics of the ascent route to Peak Burovsky via the Central Bastion of the northern wall.
- Height difference of the route: 1060 m
- Including the most challenging sections: 410 m
- Steepness of the route: 80–90°
- Including the most challenging sections: 80–90° | Date | Section № | Steepness of the section | Height of the section, in m | Terrain characteristics | Technical difficulties | Type of belay | Weather conditions | Departure time | Time of stopping at bivouac | Travel hours | Rock pitons | Ice screws | Bolts | Dural and wooden wedges | Bivouac conditions | Weight of daily ration, in grams |