10. Koyavgan via the East Ridge (combined route, by A. Baturova, category III complexity, fig. 1, 2).

From the “Dzhailyk” alpine camp (a group of 4 people) descend right down the road on the right side of the Adyrsu gorge. Cross the Adyrsu River via the bridge and approach the Jalovchat stream, then turn left off the road and ascend via the left bank of the stream to the left lateral moraine of the Jalovchat tributary valley, to the right of the East Ridge of Koyavgan peak. Along the moraine on the left bank of the Jalovchat stream, bypassing rock wall outcrops on the right, reach the tongue of the Jalovchat Glacier. From the “Dzhailyk” alpine camp, it takes 2–3 hours.

From the glacier tongue, turn left and ascend a steep scree slope with short ice and snow sections to approach the left side of the lower rock belt on the right side of the East Ridge of Koyavgan peak.

To the left of the rock belt, from the col of the East Ridge with a sharp gendarme in the center, descends:

• a steep Central ice-and-snow couloir,
• with a diamond-shaped rock outcrop in its middle section.

From the scree slope, to the right of the Central couloir, ascend 30 m leftward along an ice-and-snow slope alongside the rock belt. Then directly upwards via moderately difficult rocks in a not clearly defined steep 30-meter couloir (pitons for protection). Continue ascending 40 m rightward via easy rocks to the top of the rock belt.

From here, ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope on the East Ridge, to the right of the Central couloir, upwards and rightwards (possible rockfall) to the left side of a long narrow rock outcrop. Then ascend via easy, heavily fragmented rocks on the left side of the narrow outcrop to its top.

From there, ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope (pitons for protection) to approach the right side of the rock ascent on the East Ridge. Via heavily fragmented, easy rocks on the right side of the ascent:

• ascend 30 m straight up,
• then traverse 20 m upwards and rightwards towards a couloir.

Continue:

• 30–40 m upwards along the couloir,
• then via easy, heavily fragmented, partially snow-covered rocks on its right side, ascend to the ascent (I gendarme) of the East Ridge.

The entire ascent to the East Ridge is prone to rockfall. From the lower scree slope below the glacier tongue, it takes 5–6 hours.

On the ascent, turn right and descend 4–5 m via a rappel to a col. From the col, ascend via an easy, heavily fragmented East Ridge, between rocks and snow, and via an ice-and-snow ascent to reach III gendarme. Continue along an easy and straightforward, fragmented East Ridge to approach III gendarme.

The ascent to III gendarme involves:

• ascending 15 m via a heavily fragmented, steep corner-couloir on the right side of the ridge.

Further progression involves:

• from the gendarme, continuing along the easy East Ridge,
• ascending 50–60 m via steep, heavily fragmented rocks of moderate difficulty (protection) to the summit of Koyavgan.

The total time from reaching the East Ridge is 2–3 hours.