293 p. No 15 cm

Ascent Log

Kurmychi Peak

Brief Overview of the Ascent Area

Kurmychi Peak (4045 m) is located in a spur of the Main Caucasian Range (MCR), stretching from the MCR in a general north-northwest direction. The spur is home to popular climbing peaks such as the peaks of the Mongolian People's Republic (MPR) and Aviazia.

Most ascents of Kurmychi Peak are made in the summer via the Southeast Ridge or the Southwest Ridge, category 1B, from the Adyl-Su valley.

In winter, ascents of Kurmychi Peak are frequently made from VTsSPS Pass via the Western Ridge. However, this ascent route is not classified, although its technical difficulty and labor intensity correspond to category 1B in winter.

The management of the training camp organized by the Russian University of Physical Education, Sport, and Tourism (RGUFK), held from December 25, 2006, to January 10, 2007, proposes to classify the ascent route via the Western Ridge as category 1B in winter. Experienced climbing instructors led three groups of beginners to the summit of Kurmychi Peak via this ridge:

• Gindia D. — CMS,
• Petrushin V. — CMS,
• Nogovitsyna E. — MS.

These instructors have previously led ascents via this route in winter conditions with participants from law enforcement agencies who have completed training under the NP-1 program.

The Shkheldinsky Detachment of the Elbrus Territorial Rescue Service supports the proposal to classify the route to Kurmychi Peak as category 1B in winter.

The following documents are attached to the ascent report for Kurmychi Peak via the Western Ridge on January 5, 2007:

• Route sheet,
• Note from the summit,
• Ascent debriefing records.

Ascent Route to Kurmychi Peak via the Western Ridge

Route Description

The ascent from the Adyl-Su valley to the Sandy Camp takes 4 hours. The path to the start of the ascent is well-marked. From the Sandy Camp (sometimes called "warm" camp) to VTsSPS Pass, it takes 1.5 to 2 hours via a long, gentle, snowy slope.

From the pass, the route goes right onto the ridge. The ascent follows semi-deteriorated rocks, with some sections of not-too-steep and relatively wide snowy ridge, using simultaneous belay through outcrops in the direction of the summit. The first rock pinnacle (R0–R1), 2–2.5 m high, is reached in about 1 hour. The pinnacle is bypassed on the left.

Further:

• The ascent continues along a scree ridge, partly covered with snow, to a 3–3.5 m rock wall (R1–R2), which is bypassed on the right (belay through outcrops). The time taken to traverse the R1–R2 section is about 1 hour and 20 minutes.
• After 20 minutes, a steep ascent up fragile rocks (R2–R3) is made "head-on." The rocks are of moderate difficulty, with belay through outcrops.

The route then continues along the scree ridge (the wind typically blows away the dry winter snow), and then along the snow, bypassing a rock ascent (belay!), to reach the Southwest Ridge (R3–R4), and then along deteriorated rocks to the summit (R4–R5). The average slope of the route is 20°.

The ascent from VTsSPS Pass to the summit takes approximately 3.5 to 4 hours. At the summit, there is an Orthodox cross, under which is a cairn containing a can with a note from previous climbers.

The descent follows the ascent route back to VTsSPS Pass, taking 1 hour and 20 minutes to 1 hour and 30 minutes.

Ascent Recommendations. Due to the changing terrain conditions in winter, it is recommended to have at least 5 rock anchors and 2 ice anchors for a group of 10.

Debriefing of the Ascent on January 5, 2007, to Kurmychi Peak via the Western Ridge, Category 1B (unclassified)

Attendees: Senior Coach of the Training Camp — Baykovsky Yu.V. (I category, MSMS), Head of Rescue Team — Fyodorov O.K. (I category, MS), Instructor — Gindia D.N. (III category, CMS), Participants:

• Zemskov S.E.,
• Zemskov A.S.,
• Shkurenko I.A.,
• Ilyin I.A.,
• Firsov S.V.,
• Kukhtin V.N.,
• Sotnikov A.I.,
• Syroezhina E.V.,
• Syroezhin A.V.,
• Saglakov N.A.

Petrushin V.I. (III category, CMS), Participants:

• Kolodkina M.,
• Filippova M.,
• Protopopova M.

Gindia D.N. reports on the ascent.

The group left the Dzhan-Tugan alpine base at 12:30 and arrived at the Sandy Camp at 16:30, where they set up 3 tents, built windproof walls, prepared dinner, and had lights out at 20:00.

The group rose at 5:00, had breakfast at 6:00, and began the ascent with a slight delay. They reached VTsSPS Pass at 9:00, formed rope teams: A. Zemskov — S. Zemskov; Shkurenko — Ilyin — Gindia; Firsov — Kukhtin; Syroezhin — Syroezhina; Sotnikov — Filippova — Saglakov, and started ascending with simultaneous belay. They reached the first rock wall in 1 hour and 15 minutes. The wall was not too difficult to climb, with good outcrops for belay, so they continued with simultaneous belay. They then proceeded along the scree ridge to the second rock wall, which they also passed with simultaneous belay, and reached the summit at 11:00. They found a note from four climbers who had ascended the previous day, i.e., January 4. The descent along the ascent route took 2 hours back to the tents at the Sandy Camp.

Dismantling the camp and descending to the Dzhan-Tugan alpine base took 3 hours and 30 minutes, and they arrived at 16:30. The participants demonstrated good physical and technical preparation for the ascent, which Gindia D.N. assessed as category 1B for winter conditions.

Baykovsky Yu.: "Please ask questions to the instructor and participants."

Fyodorov O.K. to Gindia D.N.: "Did the simultaneous belay throughout the entire route affect the safety of the participants? Were the participants correct in anchoring the rope to the outcrops to prevent falls on both sides of the ridge?"

Gindia D.N.: "The participants were theoretically prepared for this type of movement along the ridge and had practiced it during rock climbing sessions. Additionally, I constantly monitored the rope teams' movement on the route and corrected their actions when necessary, although such instances were few."

Baykovsky Yu.: "Did the novices participate in developing the tactical plan for the ascent?"

Gindia D.N.: "Yes, when preparing the route sheet, the participants took part in developing the tactical plan and were familiar with it."

Fyodorov O.K.: "What were the main shortcomings observed among the participants during the ascent?"

Gindia D.N.: "The main time loss was during the organization of the camp; getting ready to depart in winter conditions was part of the training process. Perhaps, working with the rope requires additional training."

Baykovsky Yu.: "Please, participants, share your thoughts."

Zemskov A.: "The ascent was enjoyable. The route was not too difficult. The main discomfort came from the strong and cold wind."

Filippova M.: "The ascent did not seem difficult, but I think it would have been more interesting if we had to climb more rocks."

Syroezhina: "The ascent was enjoyable. The ridge was a bit monotonous, but the views of the surrounding mountains were great."

Petrushin V.I. reports on the ascent.

Their group left the Dzhan-Tugan alpine base an hour after the first group and arrived at the Sandy Camp on schedule. They set up 2 tents near the first group's tents, prepared dinner, and had lights out at 20:00.

The next morning, they rose at 6:00 and reached VTsSPS Pass by 10:00. They formed rope teams: Khodyrev — Okuneva — Petrushin; Firsov — Protopopova — Kolodkina. The route characteristics were described by the instructor of the first group and matched Petrushin's observations. About an hour before reaching the summit, they met the first group on their descent. Exercising caution and being mindful of potential rockfall, they let the first group descend. They reached the summit at 11:45. The descent followed the ascent route. They arrived at the Sandy Camp 40 minutes after the first group. They dismantled the camp and began their descent almost simultaneously with the first group. After the descent, both groups gathered at the start of the ascent to VTsSPS Pass and then proceeded together to the Dzhan-Tugan alpine base, where a celebratory welcome was prepared. Like the instructor of the first group, Petrushin V.I. believes the route corresponds to category 1B and is practically similar to the category 1B route to Brno Peak in Bezengi.

Baykovsky Yu.: "Please ask questions to the instructor."

Fyodorov O.K.: "Vasily Ivanovich, was the radio communication with the base reliable?"

Petrushin V.: "Not entirely. Some communication sessions were missed, but information was transmitted and received reliably through the first group's radio station."

Baykovsky Yu.: "Did you monitor the participants' well-being and fatigue during the ascent? Were there any complaints about fatigue or poor health?"

Petrushin V.: "I constantly monitored the participants' condition. There were no complaints about poor health from the participants."

Baykovsky Yu.: "Please, participants, share your thoughts."

Okuneva V.: "The ascent differed from rock climbing sessions due to the higher level of responsibility; on the ascent, one must check the reliability of every handhold. I'm satisfied with the ascent."

Firsov S.: "As a rock climber, I found this ascent very useful, but I felt some tension due to the risk of rockfall."

Baykovsky Yu.: "The ascent was conducted according to the 'Rules for Mountain Ascents in Russia' and the tactical plan. The ascent is confirmed for all participants. I recommend classifying the route as category 1B for winter conditions."

Fyodorov O.K.: "The ascent was conducted with all safety requirements observed. The ascent is confirmed. I recommend the route be classified as category 1B for winter conditions."

Senior Coach of the Training Camp: Yu.V. Baykovsky (MSMS, 1st sports category) Head of Rescue Team: O.K. Fyodorov (MS, 1st sports category) Instructor: D.N. Gindia (CMS, 3rd sports category)

Agreed: Head of Shkheldinsky Detachment, Elbrus Territorial Rescue Service: I. Cheresku

USB "Dzhan-Tugan" January 5, 2007

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