The route to the summit of Pik Skryabina via the Northeast Ridge (first ascent). The summit elevation is 3456 m.

Introduction

Pik Skryabina is located in a short spur of the Main Caucasian Range between the peaks of Khalatsa and Zekkara in the upper Zrug gorge. The distance from the village of Nar to the foot of the mountain is 12 km. The Transcaucasian Highway rescue team is based in Nar. The Zrug gorge is in a border zone, so it is necessary to obtain permits in advance. 10 km from Nar, on the riverbank, there are ruins of a 10th-century temple on a hill. It is possible to spend the night in a hut near the temple. In the summer, ascents to the surrounding peaks can be made from the hut.

Ascent Details

1. North Caucasus, Zrug gorge, Main Caucasian Range, classification point – 2.8.
2. Name of the peak: Pik Skryabina, route: via the Northeast Ridge.
3. Proposed category: 3B.
4. Route type: rock.

Report on the Traverse of Peaks: Suatissi — p. Geologov — Jimaray — Shau-khok — Druzhba — Zaygelan

Team of the Central Council of the DSO "Krasnoye Znamya" Coach NARKEVICH F.V. Captain PRAZDNIKOV V.A. Minsk 1965 Scheme of the traverse of peaks "Suatissi — peak 4392 — Jimaray — Shau-khok — peak Druzhba — Zaygelan". Team of the Central Council of the DSO "Krasnoye Znamya", Minsk. Legend: visible path, invisible path, bivouac locations, route sections. "It's better to quarrel with Kazbek than to drink tea with Jimaray" Ossetian proverb

1. Rocky ridge; section number in Classification 2.8
2. Tbau Eastern (2832 m), via the Eastern ridge of the South-Eastern bastion.
3. Proposed category: 5B; first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route height difference: 912 m (by GPS). Route length: 1550 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category: 135 m. Average steepness:

• main part of the route: 75°;
• entire route: 65°.

6. Pitons left on the route: total – 9 pcs., of which 7 are hammered. Pitons used on the route:

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Tbau Glavnaya via the Southwest Ridge from Kakadursky Pass, category 1B, by the GSK "Krokus" team, May 12, 2019 2019

1. Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus; Rocky Range; Classification section number - 2.8.
2. Tbau (C-3) – 2980 m; from the south along the North-West ridge.
3. 1B category of difficulty; first ascent.
4. Nature of the route – rocky.
5. Route elevation gain – 700 m. The length is about 2200 m. The elevation gain of the wall part of the route is 200 m. The steepness of the key sections of the route is up to 60°. The average steepness of the entire route is 30°.
6. Pitons left on the route – none.
7. Team's walking hours – 5 hours, days – 1.

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus; Rocky Ridge; Classification section number - 2.8.
2. Tbau (C-3) - 2980 m; via the southern wall of the North-West ridge.
3. Category 2A difficulty; first ascent.
4. Route type - rock climbing.
5. Route elevation gain – 650 m. Approximate route length is 2300 m. Wall section elevation gain – 250 m. Steepness of key route sections up to 90°. Average steepness of the entire route – 30°.
6. Pitons left on the route - none.
7. Team's walking hours – 7, days – 1.
8. Team leader: Egorin Sergey Vladimirovich – Master of Sports

1. Climbing type: rock climbing
2. Climbing area: 2.8: Caucasus: Kurtatin gorge
3. Peak, route: Tbau-khokh peak (2980 m): from the South via the chimney and the North-West ridge
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 3A category of difficulty: first ascent
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, route length — 750 m, length of sections:

• 4–5 — 40 m
• 3 — 200 m, average steepness:
• chimney — 60°
• ridge — 45°

Passport

1. Ascent class: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Rocky Ridge.
3. Peak, route: Tbaukhoh (3007 m), via the left part of the Southwest wall.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 3B–4A, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 600 m — including 400 m of actual wall climbing — total route length: 900 m — length of wall climbing: 450 m, including: — 35 m of 5th category complexity

Ascent log.

1. Ascent category: rock. 2.7.1
2. Ascent area: 2,8; Caucasus: Kurtatinskoye gorge.
3. Summit, route: Mt. Tbau-khokh (2980 m); via the Southwest wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A category; first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m; length — 1200 m. Section lengths: 6 — 50 m; 5 — 210 m; 3-4 — 330 m. Average slope: 40°; wall section: 60°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 34; chocks — 4; ice screws — none.
7. Number of climbing hours (days): 23 (2)
8. Number of bivouacs: 1st — on approach; 2nd — on the wall; 3rd — on descent.
9. Leader: Glazov A. P. – Master of Sports

REPORT

on the ascent to Mt. "Dzhailyk" (4533 m) via the Southwest Counterfort of the Western Ridge by the Dzhailyk Alpine Camp team (first ascent) Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich 1983 Alpine Camp "Dzhailyk" 360 000 Nalchik, P.O. Box 47 Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich 141 400 Moscow Region, Khimki, Aptechnaya St., 6, apt. 17 Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich