Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir, Peter I ridge
3. Summit: peak Agasis, 5730 m, counterfort of the north-eastern wall
4. Complexity category: 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference: 2200 m
   • length of sections with 5–6 cat. difficulty: 1700 m
   • average steepness: 75°

4.12.75

ON ASCENT TO PIK OKTYABR'SKOY REVOLYUTSII VIA SOUTH RIDGE FROM YAZGULEM-DARA GLACIER THROUGH PIK 6254 m. A COLLECTIVE OF ALPINISM INSTRUCTORS FROM THE ARMED FORCES OF THE USSR. THE ASCENT IS DEDICATED TO THE 50th ANNIVERSARY OF THE ARMED FORCES OF THE USSR. 1968 Photo 2. Pioneering ridge of Pik Revolyutsii. (Taken from the overnight stop on descent from Pik 6254 m.) The objectives of our team's ascents in the 1968 season were Pik 26 Baku Commissars (6834 m) and Pik Revolyutsii (6974 m). These peaks had been visited by Soviet climbers several times before, but all ascents were made either from the Fedchenko Glacier or the Grumm-Grжимайло Glacier. Our team's task was complicated by the fact that the chosen routes to these peaks started from the south, a region that Soviet climbers rarely explored. Participants of the Armed Forces (AF) gathering began preparing for the expedition in the autumn of 1967.

Passport

1. High-altitude class.
2. Pamir, Yazgulemsky Range.
3. Peak Revolyutsii, 6974 m, via the NE wall from Fedchenko Glacier.
4. Difficulty category — 6B.
5. Height difference — 1675 m. Route length: 2425 m, wall section — 1114 m, sections of 5–6 difficulty level — 880 m, including 100 m of 6th difficulty level. Average steepness of the main (wall) part of the route — 63° (5300–6320 m), including 80° — 110 m, 85° — 60 m, 90° — 40 m.
6. Use of protection points: | Pitons | Placements | | :----------------------: | :-------: | :-------: | :-------: | | Rock | Bolt | Ice | |

Route Description

From the Mynzhilki weather station, ascend to Alpinrad and continue along the trail towards the Mametova Glacier. Between the peaks of Pioneer and Amangeldy, located to the left of the lake, lies the Pioneer Pass. Do not ascend to the pass itself. The ascent to the start of the route should begin earlier, before reaching the pass; turn left under the wall of Peak Amangeldy. The approach to the wall goes along a wide talus slope between rocky outcrops. After passing between the rocky outcrops, proceed along the wall in the direction of the pass. Continue until the view opens up to the Bogdanovich Glacier. Here, a talus ridge adjoins the rocky wall of the peak, extending from the pass. The route begins from this point. It is advisable to start the route not via the chimney clogged with stones in its upper part, but rather about ten meters to the left, via a deep crevice, section R1–R2. The crevice leads to a narrow horizontal ledge; traverse it to a couloir with stones (caution: stones!), cross the couloir in its lower part, and exit to a small platform. From it, ascend freely to a 10-meter wall to the next small platform. From here, exit to the ridge via an inclined crevice (R3–R4). Movement along it is hindered by ice and wet rocks. Before exiting the chimney, transfer to its right wall, ascend to a platform (camouflaged belay) R4. From the platform, ascend 70–80 meters along severely damaged rocks (R4–R5–R6), then along a sharp ridge to the foot of the summit tower. Bypass it from the south along moderately difficult rocks and exit to the summit tower (from here, the cirques of the Bogdanovich and Tuyk-Su glaciers are clearly visible). Descend in a southwest direction via route 1B. The route was first traversed by a group of instructors from the mountain training school in 1943 under the leadership of V. Nearonsky.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants: 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac: Alpenrad.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge.
3. Peak — Peak Komsomola, height — 4376 m, route — along the north-eastern ridge (through the peaks Sneznoe plato, Lastochkino gnezdo, Ushbinka, Verblud).
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5A in winter.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 880 m
   • average steepness — 50°
   • length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 315 m
6. Pitons driven:

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, via the North wall.
4. 6B complexity category.

Indicator	Entire route	Wall	Most difficult part of the wall
Height difference

Panorama of the Researchers Glacier www.alpfederation.ru

3. Climbing Conditions and Tactics

The West Kok-Shaal-Tau region, like the entire Tian Shan, is characterized by:

• heavily fragmented rocks,
• ice collapses,
• an abundance of dry, powdery snow. In connection with this, it was necessary to prepare for overcoming rockfall-prone areas and for extensive ice and snow work. The weather in this region is not very stable. Often, in the second half of the day, it deteriorates, and clouds envelop the peaks of Chon-Tarasu, Dankov, and nearby peaks.

Report

On the Ascent of Peak Pobeda (7439.3 m) by the Joint Expedition of the Spartak Society and the Kazakh Alpine Club in July-August 1956

1. Description of the Area, Brief Description of Previous Ascent Attempts, and Expedition Objectives

Peak Pobeda (7439.3 m) is located in the eastern Tian Shan, in the East Kok-Shaal-Tau range, along the state border between the Soviet Union and the Chinese People's Republic. The section of the range where Peak Pobeda is situated stretches latitudinally and represents a vast glaciated massif - a wall about 15 kilometers long, sharply rising above the surrounding mountains. Even the lowest parts of the wall exceed 6.5 km in height. At the foot of the northern slopes of the wall lies the Zvezdochka Glacier, a major tributary of the Inylchek Glacier. The wall rises above the Zvezdochka Glacier throughout its length by 2.5-3 km. The highest point of the massif, Peak Pobeda (7439.3 m), is located in the middle part of the massif. Here, the ridge is elevated 600-700 m above the rest of the range for about 500-600 m, with no significant changes in height along this section. On the northern slope of the wall, a prominent counterfort extends towards the Zvezdochka Glacier. To the east, the massif is bounded by the sharp and deep Chon-Tareng pass. The pass saddle is limited on the side of Peak Pobeda by a local rise in the ridge (about 6900 m), which we will conditionally refer to as the Eastern Peak of Pobeda. To the northeast of the pass lies Peak Voennykh Topografov (6873 m), from which a heavily dissected ridge, Ak-Tau, extends westward.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical.
2. Ascent area: Central Tien Shan, South Inylchek.
3. Ascent route: Peak Pobeda Main, via the northeastern counterfort.
4. Complexity category: proposed — 6A category, 2nd ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference: 2989 m (by altimeter); distance: ascent — 3650 m; descent — 4160 m. Distance of sections with 5th category complexity — 580 m; 6th category complexity — 350 m.

North Caucasus and Southern Federal Districts Climbing Championship

high-altitude technical class

REPORT

On the ascent of Jailyk peak via the 3rd wall of the S. shoulder of the S. ridge (D. Laskavy's route) 5B category of complexity by the team from Rostov Region for the period from July 24–25, 2024.

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, sports rank of the leader	Vasilyev Andrey Sergeevich, Master of Sports
1.2	Full Name, sports rank of participants	Vasilyeva Irina Vitalyevna, Candidate Master of Sports
1.3	Full Name of coach	Vasilyev Andrey Sergeevich, Master of Sports