Ascent Passport

1. Winter ascent class.
2. Region 2.10 mountains of Dagestan, Chekhychay gorge, Shalbuzdag ridge.
3. Shalbuzdag North-Eastern, 3500 m, via the gap in the right bastion of the South wall.
4. 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference: route — 230 m, wall — 210 m (from 3270 m to 3480 m), average steepness of the wall — 70°, route length 506 m, wall section 246 m, section lengths:
   • 1 — 250 m
   • 2 — 20 m
   • 3 — 38 m

NW Wall of Peak Kalinina 6565 m

Geographic Description and Sporting Characteristics of Peak Kalinina

Description of Climbing Conditions

Peak Kalinina (6565 m) is located in the Academy of Sciences Range, Central Pamir. Along with Peaks Chetyrekh and Akhmadi-Donish, Peak Kalinina encloses the AYu-Dzhilga valley with a huge rocky-ice cirque. To the southeast, the massif of Peak Kalinina is quite dissected and is connected by gentle ridges to Peak Zhukova and an unnamed peak 6431 m. To the northwest, into the AYu-Dzhilga valley, Peak Kalinina drops with a two-kilometer rocky-ice wall. The first ascent to Peak Kalinina was made in 1972 by a group led by K. Kuzmin from the south, from the Odinnadtsati glacier. In 1974, a group led by V. Bozhukov, while traversing Peaks Kalinina and Kommunizma, ascended Peak Kalinina via the southeastern ridge, which runs from Peak Zhukova. Unlike other surrounding mountain regions, the AYu-Dzhilga valley is a relatively infrequently visited area of the Central Pamir. The beginning of mountaineering exploration in the area was made in 1966 by an expedition from Leningrad's "Spartak" led by Budanov. The Leningraders made ascents to Peak Akhmadi-Donish, Peak Chetyrekh, and Peak Yakira from the AYu-Dzhilga valley. Until the 1975 season, this was the only expedition to the valley.

Kazakh Republican Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society

Report

on the ascent of Peak "5570" via the NE wall. Alma-Ata 1972 From July 28 to August 2, 1972, a group from the Kazakh Republican Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society consisting of:

• 1. G. A. Petrashko — Master of Sports, leader
• 2. G. A. Beloborodov — Candidate for Master of Sports, participant
• 3. V. P. Parfenov — Candidate for Master of Sports

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: D-3 Pamir, North Shugnansky Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. 5204 m via North face
4. Proposed category of complexity: 6
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1350 m length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 920 m average steepness — 70° Gordarak

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — Technically challenging. 2. Ascent region — South-Western Pamir, Northern Pignan
2. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak 4900 Eastern ridge
3. Proposed difficulty category — 5B cat. diff.
4. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 760 m, length of sections I–6 cat. diff. — III — 360, IV — 120 m, V — 540 m, VI — average steepness — 60°
5. Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating R.P.E. rock — 163, ice — 22

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: D-3 Pamir, North Shugnan Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. 4900 m via the center of the NW wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 840 m, average steepness — 58°, section lengths: R1–5 m, R2–100 m, R3–350 m, R4–310 m, R5–295 m, R6–35 m
6. Pitons hammered: for belay: rock — 92, ice — , bolt — ; for creating artificial holds: rock — 3, ice — , bolt — , chocks — 2.
7. Number of travel hours — 16.
8. Number of nights on the route and their characteristics: non-stop ascent.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of participants, their qualification:

Report

On the ascent of Tykhen-Ardyn peak (3192) via the "Gutter of the southeastern wall" route, category 4A, in winter by the team of the Irkutsk Alpine Section from 09.11.2021 to 09.11.2021.

I. Ascent Passport

Working notes from 6A Khvostenko on Zvezdny (July 2020) June 29 10:00 departure 10:35 below the route 11:00 start of work 16:00 above the first ledge by 17 m — 2.5 ropes fixed. 1st rope: Ito, Sky, relief. Installed one new bolt in an old hole. 2nd rope: Ito, Sky, 5 m, climbing to the ledge 6B+/6C. Bolts at the station, but better 5 m higher, just a 60 m rope. 3rd rope: 8 m, climbing in boots. Ito on the flake, wet and slime from under the eave, can be bypassed on the left on the fifi hooks. At the end — climbing on wet rock to the bolts on the eave 5C+. From them traverse right 10 m. Two bolts. Slightly left: one Sky hole, wet; friend under the eave; bolt behind the eave; three Sky holes.

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing type — rock climbing
2. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
3. Peak Vostochny Zvezdny, 2190 m via S wall
4. Claimed as — first ascent
5. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 280 m.
• total length 595 m.
• length of sections with 4th cat. diff. — 75 m., 3rd cat. diff. — 200 m.
• average steepness: entire route — 45°.

St. Petersburg Climbing Championship

2014 Description of the ascent to the summit of Kara-Kaya (3646 m) via the central buttress of the southwest wall, 6A category of difficulty (E. Poltavets, 2010) ROUTE COMPLETED BY TEAM FASIL Team captain - Nikitin Andrey Borisovich

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge, section No. 2.5 of the route classifier for mountain peaks, point 2.5.226
2. Name of the summit: Kara-Kaya (3646 m), route name: via the central buttress of the southwest wall (E. Poltavets, 2010)
3. Category of difficulty: 6A
4. Route type: rock climbing