58. Karatash via the Southwest Ridge The route is rock, category 1B difficulty (fig. 5, 6, 62, 66, 67). Length — 900 m, ascent — 400 m, time — 4–5 hours. The path from the Kyrgyzata alpine camp (group of 4–12 people) to the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Joldzhilga glacier — see route 14. From the initial bivouac, cross the glacier and ascend the moraine to the Ruchyev Cirque. From here, go left and up along the buried glacier to the first wide talus couloir of the Southwest Ridge of Karatash peak. From the cirque, ascend an 80–100-meter ice and snow slope, then a 200–250-meter wide talus couloir that narrows at the top and becomes a damaged rock couloir (rockfall hazard) to reach the Southwest Ridge. Here, turn left and traverse 450–500 meters of easy, damaged rock on the Southwest Ridge, overcoming numerous short (3–5 m) walls and gendarmes head-on or bypassing them ("live" rocks, protection required), to approach the first pitch.

The trail initially goes along the right (orographically) side of the Suu-Chiktyn River. After 30 minutes, you need to descend down to the river, cross two branches of the Jav-Jjikga tributary fording. Then, continue along the trail on the right (orographically) bank of the Suu-Chiktyn River. The gorge gradually turns to the right and takes a south-north direction. At the bend of the river, it is necessary to ford it to the left (orographically) side and proceed towards the visible terminal moraine of the Suu-Chiktyn glacier. From the crossing point, the summit is visible. The path from the crossing point to the moraine takes 30-40 minutes. Advantages of crossing the terminal moraine:

The rocks of medium difficulty have cracks and ledges on the wall. There were 3 pitons hammered into the wall. The wall is actually the beginning of the couloir. The couloir has many loose rocks, so it is necessary to move carefully, constantly monitoring its upper part. The steepness of the couloir is 40°–60° (it is mainly rocky), the width is up to 5 m. Belays are organized through втулки (bushings), of which there are quite enough. After passing 60–70 m, we come to the second wall. The wall is 30 m long, with a steepness of 65–70°, monolithic, has few ledges and cracks. The first climber needs to be let out on the entire rope. At the end of the wall, there are ledges for organizing belays. Four pitons were hammered into the platform. The wall is climbed along a 5 m shelf that goes to the left at the top, and then along a crack. The place is difficult, and it is necessary to carefully organize the lower belay. Further, the couloir turns into an internal corner — a couloir with rocks of medium difficulty, extending up to 100 m, 65°. The corner-couloir has many ledges for organizing belays. The corner-couloir leads to the third wall, 15 m long and with a steepness of 70–80°. The wall has narrow 10–15 cm shelves, but few cracks, the ledges are smoothed out, and the rocks are like "бараньи лбы" (sheep's foreheads). The place is difficult. Three pitons were hammered into the wall. After the wall, we enter again a rocky couloir, up to 120 m long, with a steepness of up to 60°. The rocks are of medium difficulty, there are good ledges for belays.

89. Traverse of Kukryniksy Severaya - Yuzhnaya The route is rocky, Category 1B complexity (Fig. 5, 87, 93, 94). Length - 2600 m, elevation gain - 630 m, time - 6-7 hours. The path from the Kirgizat alplager (group size not limited) to the Kukryniksy Severaya summit - see route 87. From the Severaya summit:

• descend 50-80 meters down the partly snow-covered talus on the right side of the South ridge to the col;
• then traverse 450-500 m along the talus with some easy broken rock on the right side of the long ridge to reach the Kukryniksy Glavnaya summit (30-40 minutes from Severaya). From the Glavnaya summit:
• descend down the partly snow-covered talus on the right side of the 100-120-meter South ridge to the col;
• traverse along the easy broken rock and talus of the 700-800-meter col to approach the North ridge of Kukryniksy Yuzhnaya;
• from the col, ascend the simple, possibly snow-covered, 150-200-meter rock of the North ridge to reach the Kukryniksy Yuzhnaya summit (1-1.5 hours from Glavnaya). Descend along the talus slope via Kievyanka pass.

9. Kurgan Glavnaya from the west via Central couloir. The route is combined, category of difficulty 2A (fig. 5, 6, 15, 16, 18). Length — 1200 m, ascent — 700 m, time — 2.5–3 hours. The path from "Kirgizat" alpine camp (group of 2–4 people) to the initial bivouac on the moraine of Kurgan gorge under the Central couloir of Kurgan peak — see route 10. Departure from the initial bivouac at 3:00–4:00. Up the scree slope, then up the wide 35–40° scree Central couloir for 600–800 m (rockfall, protection). Further 300–350 m up the right branch of the couloir, from which exit left to a site above the long rocky Western spur — a bastion dividing the upper part of the Central couloir. From the site, 120–150 m up and right along a 30–35° steep scree slope to the snowy shoulder of the Western ridge. From the shoulder, left and 80–100 m up simple and moderately difficult 40–50° rocks of the Western ridge ("live" rocks, protection) to the summit of Kurgan Glavnaya. From the initial bivouac — 2.5–3 hours. The route is prone to rockfall!! img-0.jpeg Fig. 18. Kurgan Glavnaya from the west

53. Osh Main from the southeast via the couloir of the Eastern spur of the Southern ridge The route is rocky, category 2A difficulty (fig. 5, 49, 57, 58). Length — 1300 m, elevation gain — 600 m, time — 3–3.5 hours. The approach path from the "Kirgizata" alpine camp (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the light moraine of the upper circus of the Kurgan gorge — see in the route
54. From the initial bivouac, approach the wide scree, the first southern couloir from the base of the Eastern spur, with a long rocky outcrop in the center. From the moraine, 300–400 m up, on 30–35° fine and medium scree of the couloir, left of the long outcrop, then on simple rocks of the narrow destroyed couloir ("live" stones, protection) ascend to the saddle of the Eastern spur. From the initial bivouac — 1–1.5 hours. On the saddle of the Eastern spur:

• turn left
• on simple and easy, heavily destroyed, gently sloping rocks
• in the upper part — on scree Pass the 400–500-meter Eastern spur or its right side, exit to the scree shoulder of the Southern ridge. On the scree shoulder of the Southern ridge:
• turn right

49. Osh Western from the north via couloir and Eastern ridge-slope The route is combined, category 1B difficulty (fig. 5, 49, 53–56). Length — 900 m, duration — 2.5–3 hours. The approach path is from the Kirgizata alpine camp (group of 4–6 people) to the initial bivouac in the Djoldjilga gorge, short of the western walls of the Osh massif, see route 14. From the alpine camp — 3–3.5 hours. From the initial bivouac, ascend the scree slope overgrown with grass, possibly snow-covered, to the right side of the wide ridge of the Scedlovina pass, connecting the Osh massif with the Mazar peak. Here, turn right and along the wide ridge, approach the foot of the snow-ice couloir-slope descending from the saddle of the massif between the North and West peaks, along the western wall of Osh North peak. On the ridge, turn right and ascend the 35–40° snow-ice slope of the couloir for 200–250 meters (rockfall hazard, piton belay) to the scree-covered saddle of the massif. From the initial bivouac — 2–2.5 hours. On the scree-covered saddle, turn right and ascend the easy, broken rocks, then large simple blocky rocks ("live" stones, belay) of the 60–80-meter wide Eastern ridge-slope to reach the summit of Osh Western. From the initial bivouac — 2.5–3 hours.

45. Osh Sever­naya via the South Ridge

The route is rocky, Category III complexity (fig. 5, 49–51). Length — 650 m, time — 5–6 hours. The approach path from the "Kir­giz­a­ta" al­pin­ist camp (group of 2–6 people) to the saddle of the massif between the North and West peaks — see route 46. From the saddle, traverse left and 140–160 m to the right along a 30–40° scree slope to approach the wall on the left side of the weakly expressed Western counterfort of the Kupol pinnacle on the South Ridge of the North peak. From the scree, ascend (with piton protection) 50–60 m up smoothed moderate and above moderate difficulty rocks at a 70° wall, then 40–50 m up moderate difficulty wide steep

97. Suychikty via North Buttress of the West Ridge. The route is rocky, Category 1B difficulty (fig. 5, 87, 95, 99). Length — 700 m, elevation gain — 400 m, time — 3–4 hours. The approach path from "Kirgizata" alpine camp (group of 2–12 people) to the initial bivouac at the first terminal moraine of the Beketty valley, above its fork, see route 91. From the initial bivouac, turn left and ascend the grassy slope to the left of a rocky outcrop. Above the outcrop, turn right and approach the North Buttress of Suychikty’s West Ridge via possible snowy scree. About 1 hour from the initial bivouac. From here, ascend easy broken rocks and scree on the gradually narrowing North Buttress for 300–400 meters under the West Ridge’s gendarme. Bypass the gendarme via simple rocks on the left side (belaying), and reach the West Ridge behind it. On the ridge, turn left and ascend easy broken rocks on a gentle 250–300-meter West Ridge to the summit of Suychikty. 2–2.5 hours from the start of the buttress.

6. Ascent of Surto Peak via the South Ridge The route is rocky, Category 1B difficulty (Fig. 5, 6, 13–15). The length is 2000 m (1000 m from the pass), height gain (H) is 500 m, and the time required is 2.5–3 hours. From the Kyrgyzata Alpine Camp (no group size limit):

• Cross the Kurgan River via the bridge.
• Move up the road on the left bank of the Kurgan River.
• Go around a green hill with an arch forest. In the center of the Kurgan valley, approach a temporary bridge made of a pair of logs from the left, and cross it to the right bank of the Kurgan River (there is a swamp near the river). Continue along the trail along the slope of the peak Mazar, on the right bank of the Kurgan River, and move up the moraines until the valley turns right. Then, move up and to the left along the moraines, cross the valley, and approach the scree slopes of the Surtoo Pass, a high saddle between the peaks of Surtoo to the left (north) and Kurgan to the right (south). The journey from the Alpine Camp takes 3.5–4 hours. Ascent:
• From the moraine, ascend 1000–1200 m up the medium and fine 30–35° scree to reach the Surtoo Pass, to the left of the central gendarme. It takes about 1 hour from the valley moraine.
• On the pass, turn left and follow the heavily broken easy, местами simple rocks, alternating with scree sections and short simple walls of the gently sloping 20–25° 700–800-meter South Ridge, to reach a wide scree saddle.