- Karatash via the Southwest Ridge
The route is rock, category 1B difficulty (fig. 5, 6, 62, 66, 67). Length — 900 m, ascent — 400 m, time — 4–5 hours.
The path from the Kyrgyzata alpine camp (group of 4–12 people) to the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Joldzhilga glacier — see route 14. From the initial bivouac, cross the glacier and ascend the moraine to the Ruchyev Cirque. From here, go left and up along the buried glacier to the first wide talus couloir of the Southwest Ridge of Karatash peak. From the cirque, ascend an 80–100-meter ice and snow slope, then a 200–250-meter wide talus couloir that narrows at the top and becomes a damaged rock couloir (rockfall hazard) to reach the Southwest Ridge. Here, turn left and traverse 450–500 meters of easy, damaged rock on the Southwest Ridge, overcoming numerous short (3–5 m) walls and gendarmes head-on or bypassing them ("live" rocks, protection required), to approach the first pitch.
Route Description
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Route:ЮЗ гребню с юго-востокаWarnings
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