Document #64786799 - Route Description

Route Description

December 2, 2025

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Osh Western from the north via couloir and Eastern ridge-slope The route is combined, category 1B difficulty (fig. 5, 49, 53–56). Length — 900 m, duration — 2.5–3 hours. The approach path is from the Kirgizata alpine camp (group of 4–6 people) to the initial bivouac in the Djoldjilga gorge, short of the western walls of the Osh massif, see route 14. From the alpine camp — 3–3.5 hours. From the initial bivouac, ascend the scree slope overgrown with grass, possibly snow-covered, to the right side of the wide ridge of the Scedlovina pass, connecting the Osh massif with the Mazar peak. Here, turn right and along the wide ridge, approach the foot of the snow-ice couloir-slope descending from the saddle of the massif between the North and West peaks, along the western wall of Osh North peak. On the ridge, turn right and ascend the 35–40° snow-ice slope of the couloir for 200–250 meters (rockfall hazard, piton belay) to the scree-covered saddle of the massif. From the initial bivouac — 2–2.5 hours. On the scree-covered saddle, turn right and ascend the easy, broken rocks, then large simple blocky rocks ("live" stones, belay) of the 60–80-meter wide Eastern ridge-slope to reach the summit of Osh Western. From the initial bivouac — 2.5–3 hours.

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