- Ascent of Surto Peak via the South Ridge
The route is rocky, Category 1B difficulty (Fig. 5, 6, 13–15). The length is 2000 m (1000 m from the pass), height gain (H) is 500 m, and the time required is 2.5–3 hours.
From the Kyrgyzata Alpine Camp (no group size limit):
- Cross the Kurgan River via the bridge.
- Move up the road on the left bank of the Kurgan River.
- Go around a green hill with an arch forest.
In the center of the Kurgan valley, approach a temporary bridge made of a pair of logs from the left, and cross it to the right bank of the Kurgan River (there is a swamp near the river). Continue along the trail along the slope of the peak Mazar, on the right bank of the Kurgan River, and move up the moraines until the valley turns right. Then, move up and to the left along the moraines, cross the valley, and approach the scree slopes of the Surtoo Pass, a high saddle between the peaks of Surtoo to the left (north) and Kurgan to the right (south). The journey from the Alpine Camp takes 3.5–4 hours.
Ascent:
- From the moraine, ascend 1000–1200 m up the medium and fine 30–35° scree to reach the Surtoo Pass, to the left of the central gendarme. It takes about 1 hour from the valley moraine.
- On the pass, turn left and follow the heavily broken easy, местами simple rocks, alternating with scree sections and short simple walls of the gently sloping 20–25° 700–800-meter South Ridge, to reach a wide scree saddle.
- After crossing the saddle, ascend a wide, simple, and not steep 40–45° 60–70-meter rise (with protection) to reach the summit ridge.
- Continue along the broken rocks and scree of the wide South Ridge to ascend to the summit of Surtoo. The journey from the Kurgan valley moraine takes 2.5–3 hours.
