45. Osh Sever­naya via the South Ridge

The route is rocky, Category III complexity (fig. 5, 49–51). Length — 650 m, time — 5–6 hours.

The approach path from the "Kir­giz­a­ta" al­pin­ist camp (group of 2–6 people) to the saddle of the massif between the North and West peaks — see route 46. From the saddle, traverse left and 140–160 m to the right along a 30–40° scree slope to approach the wall on the left side of the weakly expressed Western counterfort of the Kupol pinnacle on the South Ridge of the North peak.

From the scree, ascend (with piton protection) 50–60 m up smoothed moderate and above moderate difficulty rocks at a 70° wall, then 40–50 m up moderate difficulty wide steep 45–50° weakly expressed Western counterfort. Further, ascend 40–50-meter rocks at a 45–60° slope («loose» stones, protection) to reach the South Ridge of the Kupol pinnacle.

On the ridge, turn left and ascend the simple South Ridge to the Kupol pinnacle. From the pinnacle, descend to a narrow isthmus below the summit ascent along simple destroyed rocks, partly along a narrow 60–80-meter ridge.

From the pinnacle, descend to a narrow isthmus below the summit ascent. Ascend steep 50–55° destroyed rocks of moderate difficulty at a 30–40-meter ascent on the South Ridge to reach the summit of Osh Sever­naya. From the scree saddle between the North and West peaks — 4–5 hours.