Fig. 1

1. Ascent to the summit of Zapadnaya Kara-kaya (3570 m) from the Zapadno-Karakaysky pass — cat. diff. 6B (Fig. 1)

The approach to the Kara-kaya massif can be made by two variants: 1st variant. From Dombayskaya polyana, drive by car through Karachaevsk and stanitsa Kardanikskaya to the settlement of Rudnichny. Below Rudnichny, cross the river Aksaut via a log bridge, then proceed 700–800 m upstream along the river and ascend the slope to the right and upwards to a shepherd's trail. Follow the trail to the site of old sheepfolds and further across the glacier to the Yuzhno-Karakaysky pass. From Rudnichny, it takes 6–7 hours. 2nd variant. From Dombayskaya polyana, descend via Sulakhatsky or Alibeksky pass (through the "green hotel") to the Jalovchat glacier, cross it slightly above the tongue, and ascend a steep scree slope to the green shoulder of the northern spur of the Aksaut massif — bivouac site. From Dombayskaya polyana: 8–9 hours (Sulakhatsky and Alibeksky passes — cat. diff. 1A).

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, Daut valley, classification table number 2.2
2. Peak Kyshkadzher 3837 m (by GPS), via the 3rd ridge
3. Category of difficulty — 4A (presumably), first ascent
4. Route character — rocky
5. Height difference of the route — 260 m Route length — 760 m. Average steepness of the route — 28°
6. Total equipment used: Rock pitons — 7, Nuts — 37
7. Left on the route during descent — 1 bolt piton

Bolshaya Marka

Fig. 11

Ascent to Bolshaya Marka peak (3768 m) - Cat. 1B (Fig. 11)

From Dombay plain, take the road to the "Alibek" alpine camp and continue on the trail to "Semidesyatitrekh" pass. The journey from Dombay plain takes 5-6 hours. From the pass, descend north down a steep snowy slope (ensure belaying!), then traverse scree and grassy slopes to reach a meadow in the Kiche-Teberda gorge. Set up a bivouac. The total time from Dombay plain is 8-9 hours. Continue by traversing a grassy slope (under the trigonometric point) upwards to the left, towards the western edge of the ridge. Then, proceed up a large scree slope into a hanging valley bounded by the southwest ridge on the right and the west ridge of Bolshaya Marka peak on the left. A high rock face is visible on the slope of the western ridge. Ascend the slope under the rock face, bypass it on the left, and continue up the slope to the northern buttress of the peak. Traverse scree to reach the col between the peak and a large gendarme. Then:

• proceed right-upwards along a rocky slope (weathered rocks!),
• reach the ridge,
• then traverse ledges to the summit.

Fig. 3

2. Ascent to the Marukh-bashi summit via the northern ridge — category 3B difficulty (Fig. 3B)

From the Yuzhno-Karakayskiy pass (overnight stay on the moraine under the pass) ascend up to the right along the snow to the right side of the ridge to the rocks. Then move left along the rocks for 60 m and reach the main ridge. Along the heavily fragmented rocks of the main ridge (rockfall hazard!) ascend 90 m upwards and continue along the clearly defined ridge to the slabs. Bypass the slabs on the right (40–50 m) and reach the first ascent. From the ridge, move right to bypass the ascent (8 m), then climb 20 m upwards along the wall of the ascent (piton protection!) and reach the

Fig. 33

8. Ascent to Mitnikov Peak (3700 m) via the Eastern Ridge — Cat. 3B (Fig. 33)

From Dombayskaya Polyana, follow the trail, then cross the Dombay River via a ford, and ascend along grassy slopes, scree, and rocky outcrops on the left side of the Inye Glacier (in rope connections on the glacier!) to a snow plateau. Continue:

• Left — ascend to the col between Maly Inye Peak (Zoloto Peak) and the spur of the Eastern summit of Jughuturuchat.
• Cross the col and exit onto the Eastern Jughuturuchat Glacier (the glacier is avalanche-prone,

Passport

I class — snow-ice 2. Main Caucasian Range, Adyrsu river gorge 3. V. Ullutau via the north face of the eastern shoulder (D. Chernoslvin's route) — 4058 m. 4. Difficulty category — 5B. 5. Height difference 950 m, length — 1020 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 230 m. Average steepness of the ice part of the route 50°, rocky part — 65°. 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 62, chocks — 46, ice screws — 102. 7. Climbing hours — 16.5 hours. 8. Overnight stay — snow platform on the ridge. 9. Leader — Andryushkevich Konstantin Ivanovich, CMS. Participants — Panarin Nikolai Dmitrievich, CMS, Foigt Alexander Vadimovich, CMS, Chan-syan Anatoly Vladimirovich, CMS.

Report

on the first ascent route

To the summit of Begemot

1600 m Altai Republic, Shirlak waterfall area

Route "Podkustovnyy vypolzzen'"

via the southern wall proposed 5B cat. diff. (rock) April 21, 2024

Ai-Petri (Main Summit) via the South Ridge, cat. 2a

From the Yalta–Sevastopol road (9th kilometer), follow the forest road to the Hostа-Bash clearing for 30–40 minutes. Ascend to the main couloir of the Ai-Petri massif from the Hostа-Bash clearing via the high riverbed. The route begins to the right of the main couloir and continues left and upwards along an inclined ledge to the start of the ridge. Then:

• Traverse 160 m across large slabs to the beginning of a counterfort,
• Ascend the counterfort, which leads to the south ridge. The route then follows the rocky south ridge (moderate difficulty) towards the summit tower. Bypassing the encountered gendarmes, ascend a couloir to a col between the pinnacles and the summit tower. From the col, ascend the moderate difficulty rocks to the summit. The route is 800 m long:
• easy rocks — 600 m,
• moderate difficulty rocks — 180–200 m. The ascent takes 4 hours.

Karajash Peak (3171) Route: via the northern ridge Complexity category: 4A cat. (Combined) Leader: V. Babkin Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok ravine, mountain range (ridge) Karajash Section in KMGV – 2.1. E-mail – ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the mountaineering route to the Karajash peak (3171) "Via the northern ridge 4A cat. (combined)".

2. Ascent to the summit Glavny Ptysh (3520 m) along the eastern edge — cat. diff. 3B (Fig. 39)

Bivouac on the Ptyshsky pass. From the pass, 30 m to the right along the shelves to a 3-meter wall and along it to the left and upwards to the jagged ridge composed of inclined slabs (piton protection!). Further directly along the ridge to the steepest part of the ascent (bypassing to the south is not recommended). At the steep part of the ascent:

• exit to the left to the internal corner,
• along it upwards 15–18 m (thorough piton protection!)
• exit to the shoulder. From the shoulder:
• upwards on the right side of the wide couloir (rockfall!)
• to the summit. From the pass 6–7 hours.