LAGAU via NW ridge, cat. 3B diff. via 3rd ridge, cat. 2B diff. via SW slope, cat. 2B diff.

Ascent Passport

1. Category: ice and snow climb
2. Caucasus, Tsey Gorge
3. Mamisong, 4358 m, via the left icefall of the north face
4. Proposed route — Category 5B difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 780 m, route length 1060 m. Length of Category 5B sections — 380 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 60° (3820 m — 4140 m).
6. Ice screws used: 89
7. Team's climbing hours — 7, days — II.
8. No overnight stays.

Ukrainian Council SDSO "Burevestnik"

V. Mamison, 4360 m, via the right part of the North face. 5B

Team composition:

1. Bodnik V.N.
2. Barsukov V.A.
3. Derkach A.A.
4. Kharianyk I.V. Climbing on fixed ropes. R2–R3. Climbing on fixed ropes. R10–R11.

Russian Alpine Federation Classification Commission We request to include in the classification table a route to the peak Kaltberg East, 3300 m, with an ascent via the NE wall of Monakh (first ascent, approximately 5B category of difficulty), climbed by a team of instructors from the "Tsey" alpine camp during the III Championship of the Caucasian Territorial Administration of Alpine Camps in 1983 (rock climbing category). The ascent report was submitted at the time, but apparently was not reviewed due to technical reasons. Vice-President Alpinism Federation of Ukraine Zagirnyak M.V.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Tsey valley

SOUTHERN FEDERAL DISTRICT OF THE RUSSIAN FEDERATION ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 2009

REPORT OF THE TEAM OF THE NORTH OSSETIAN SEARCH AND RESCUE UNIT AND THE ALPINISM FEDERATION OF NORTH OSETIA

Peak: Monakh (2757 m) — via the left part of the North face. First ascent.

ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

1. Caucasus. Tsey valley. Classification section number 2.7.
2. Monakh (2757 m) — via the left part of the North face.
3. Proposed category: 5B. First ascent.
4. Route type: rock climbing.
5. Route height difference: 760 m (according to GPS). Total route length: 1100 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty: 210 m. Steepness of key sections: up to 100°. Average steepness of the route: 65°.

ASCENT PASSPORT I. Climbing category: technical 2. Climbing area: Caucasus (2.7 from Gurdzyvcek Pass to Mamisson Pass), p. Passionarii 4000 m, via West wall of the bastion and Northwest ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5A cat. diff. 5. Route characteristics: Height difference: 940 m Length of sections with 5th-6th cat. diff.: 290 m Average steepness: 42° 6. Pitons driven:

PASSPORT

1. Rock climbing.
2. Caucasus, Tsey Gorge.
3. Mt. Passionaria, 4000 m via the chimney of the Western bastion wall and NW ridge.
4. Proposed: Category 5B difficulty for first ascent (second ascent).
5. Elevation gain 800 m, length 1150 m. Length of Category 5B–6 sections — 160 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 85° (3400–3560 m).
6. Pitons hammered: rock: 32, bolted: 0, chocks: 25, ice: 0.
7. Team's travel time — 9 hours.
8. Overnights — none.
9. Leader — Leonid Borisovich Volkov, Master of Sports.

R0: Initial bivouac R1: 15 m, 5, 70° R2: 5 m, 65° R3: 30 m, 4–5, 60° Miscellaneous rocks R5: 10 m, 4, 60° R6: 15 m, VA₁, 70° R7: 10 m, 5, 65°

V. PASSIONARIA VIA NW RIDGE BASTION, 5B cat. diff.

Fig. 57

1. Ascent to the peak Perednyaya Chotcha (3637 m) via the counterfort of the northern wall — category 4B difficulty (fig. 57)

From Dombay plain by car to the Severny shelter. From the Severny shelter:

• via a log across the Khokel river
• further along the trail on the left side of the Chotcha gorge to the snowy couloir under the northern wall of the Chotcha peak Ascent:
• up the middle of the couloir to its middle part
• then via the "ram's foreheads" and uncomplicated rocks