249. Ushba Severная via South-Eastern wall (combined route, V. Staritskiy, cat. 5B, fig. 32, 36). From the village of Gul, follow the trail to the Gul glacier and along its right side to the left-bank (orographically) moraine. The initial bivouac is on the upper moraine's flat areas known as Gulskie ploshchadki. The journey from Gul takes 4–5 hours. From the moraine, ascend onto the glacier, cross its eastern branch, and proceed along the snowy slopes on the glacier's right side. Staying close to the slopes of the Gulba peak, reach the flat areas on the rocky outcrop-ridge beneath the hanging glacier. Continue along the snowy slopes on the right side of the glacier to approach the left side of the large central rocky outcrop situated on the right of the broad ice-snow slope descending from Ushba's saddle. Ascend the steep rocks of medium and above-medium difficulty via a somewhat indistinct internal angle to reach the outcrop. Then, continue up the steep ice-snow slope with rock outcrops, crossing ice gullies, to reach the base of the south-eastern ridge of Ushba Severная. The journey from the initial bivouac takes 3–5 hours. From here, ascend the monolithic rocks of the south-eastern ridge and a 40-meter vertical chimney to reach a small flat area. From it, climb 60–70 meters up a difficult wall and then 40 meters up. From the initial bivouac, the ascent takes 12–14 hours. Climb steep, crumbling rocks to a small flat area for a sitting bivouac. From the flat area, ascend 40 meters up a difficult wall, then 10 meters up a very difficult wall (using artificial aids, ladders) to an inclined slab. A sitting bivouac is possible here. Continue as follows:

• From the slab, ascend 40 meters up a very difficult wall (using artificial aids, ladders) to beneath a smooth slope, which is bypassed on the right via a small ridge.
• Then, climb 40 meters up steep rocks of above-medium difficulty along the ridge, descending 8–10 meters to a connecting ridge.

1. Category of ice and snow ascents.
2. Central Caucasus.
3. North Ushba via NW wall.
4. Proposed route: 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1600 m, length — 2300 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 1320 m. Average steepness: main sections — 58° (3800–4650 m), entire route — 49°.
6. Pitons driven: rock — 46, chocks — 18, ice screws — 49, snow anchors — 25.
7. Team's climbing hours: 25 days : 2
8. Overnight stops: 1st and 2nd bivouacs were dug out on a snow-ice slope.

Ascent Passport

1. Class — winter
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus
3. Peak — Ushba N. 4694 m, via the Northwest wall
4. Category of difficulty — 6A
5. Height difference — 1017 m, length — 1700 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 1020 m, length of sections with 6th category of difficulty — 70 m, average steepness of the wall section of the route — 47°
6. Pitons driven: rock, chocks, ice screws, bolt pitons | 5 | 3 | 83 | 0 | | :-: | :-: | :--: | :-: | | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 |

Passport

I. Category — technical 2. Central Caucasus 3. Peak — Ushba North via N.W. wall (4694 m) Kolomyttsev V.G. route 4. 5B cat. diff. — 2nd ascent of the "Silver" route in 1982 5. Height difference: 1700 m, length 2400 m. Length of 5 cat. diff. sections — 1240 m. Average steepness of main sections: 55° (3750–4660 m) of the route 47° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 26 закладок — 21

Ascent Passport

I. Winter ascent category 2. Central Caucasus 3. North Ushba, via the Northwest wall 4. Route 6A category of difficulty (route 181) 5. Elevation gain 1600 m, length — 2300 m Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 1320 m. Average steepness of main sections — 58° (3800–4650), route: 49° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 26, chocks — 6, ice screws — 85 7. Team's travel time: 23 hours and days — 3

Passport

1. Class of winter ascents.
2. Central Caucasus.
3. North Ushba via northwest wall (Kolomyttsev V.G. route)
4. 6A difficulty category.
5. Height difference — 1600 m. Length 2300 m. Length of sections:

• 5–6 cat. diff. — 1320 m
• 6 cat. diff. — 840 m

Ascent Certificate

1. Class: winter
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Prielbrusye
3. Ushba North via Northwest wall
4. Category of difficulty: 6A
5. Route characteristics:
6. Elevation gain: 1700 m (by altimeter)
7. Route length: 2550 m
   • Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 1370 m
   • Average steepness: main part of the route — 56°, entire route (from bivouacs) — 48°

I. Class – technical 2. Central Caucasus 3. Peak — Ushba Northern via left part of NE wall, 4694 m, route by Grishchenko V. I. 4. 5B cat. diff. 2nd ascent of route I-98-I year 5. Height difference: 1495 m, length — 2050 m length of sections with 5-6 cat. diff. — 1000 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 75° (3995-4035, 40-I-5–4-I-75, 42-I-O–44-I-O), including 440 m of 6 cat. diff. 6. Pitons hammered:

Ushba Shkhana, 4710 m, via "Red corner", c, CA cat. diff., route A. Shultse, 03. From the Ma­ze­ri vil­lage, the path to the summit goes along the small Gu­li-Cha­le stream to the Gulsky glacier (6–7 hours). Bivouac on the grassy slopes near the Gul glacier. From the bivouac site:

• Cross the Gul glacier towards a wide snow couloir, which starts the ascent to the Ma­zer­skaya saddle.
• Having gone about 2/3 of the distance along the couloir, turn right into a small rocky couloir.
• Exit through it to a ridge, which leads to the beginning of a narrow snow couloir.
• Move along this couloir to the Ma­zer­skaya saddle (jags) — 4–4.5 hours from the bivouac.

v. USHBA SHIKHANA, 4710 m via NW edge, cat. diff. 5B, G. Zhivlyuk's route, 62 Height difference — 2000 m, average steepness — 65°, length of sections with category VI difficulty — 120 m, V — 180 m, IV — 820 m, III — 450 m. Trekking hours — 47. Number of bivouacs — 3. Climbing leader — Nasonova E.T. Climbing date — 9:00–14:00, 1982. Recommendations: From "Ohotnichye bivouacs" or from the moraine of Ushba glacier, a hanging glacier is clearly visible, located to the right of the leftmost rocky edge of the NW wall D. of Ushba. The hanging glacier and the NW edge, abutting against the sheer walls of the "bastion", are good landmarks on the lower half of the route. The length of the edge to the "bastion" is about 1500 m. The path along the summit tower is clearly visible from the side of Ushba pass. It is mainly a diagonal traverse along a wall covered with flowstone ice with a steepness of about 70°. The length of the route along the tower is 1000–1100 m. The main technical difficulties are encountered when bypassing the tower. The western orientation of the wall contributes to the fact that the group gets "tired" late and does not have time to make a comfortable bivouac. It is recommended to set up a bivouac no later than 16:00.

Route description:

From the bivouac on the moraine of Ushba glacier, we head to the small glacier descending from under route D. Grigorenko — Prigoda. From the small glacier, we cross the rocky edge in its narrow part (160 m of category III–IV rocks) and get to the hanging glacier. We ascend the lower part of the hanging glacier, broken by crevices, onto its plateau and then, after 350–400 m along the snowy plateau, we reach the NW edge.