- Ushba Severная via South-Eastern wall (combined route, V. Staritskiy, cat. 5B, fig. 32, 36). From the village of Gul, follow the trail to the Gul glacier and along its right side to the left-bank (orographically) moraine. The initial bivouac is on the upper moraine's flat areas known as Gulskie ploshchadki. The journey from Gul takes 4–5 hours.
From the moraine, ascend onto the glacier, cross its eastern branch, and proceed along the snowy slopes on the glacier's right side. Staying close to the slopes of the Gulba peak, reach the flat areas on the rocky outcrop-ridge beneath the hanging glacier. Continue along the snowy slopes on the right side of the glacier to approach the left side of the large central rocky outcrop situated on the right of the broad ice-snow slope descending from Ushba's saddle.
Ascend the steep rocks of medium and above-medium difficulty via a somewhat indistinct internal angle to reach the outcrop. Then, continue up the steep ice-snow slope with rock outcrops, crossing ice gullies, to reach the base of the south-eastern ridge of Ushba Severная.
The journey from the initial bivouac takes 3–5 hours. From here, ascend the monolithic rocks of the south-eastern ridge and a 40-meter vertical chimney to reach a small flat area. From it, climb 60–70 meters up a difficult wall and then 40 meters up.
From the initial bivouac, the ascent takes 12–14 hours. Climb steep, crumbling rocks to a small flat area for a sitting bivouac.
From the flat area, ascend 40 meters up a difficult wall, then 10 meters up a very difficult wall (using artificial aids, ladders) to an inclined slab. A sitting bivouac is possible here.
Continue as follows:
- From the slab, ascend 40 meters up a very difficult wall (using artificial aids, ladders) to beneath a smooth slope, which is bypassed on the right via a small ridge.
- Then, climb 40 meters up steep rocks of above-medium difficulty along the ridge, descending 8–10 meters to a connecting ridge.
From the connecting ridge, ascend 60–80 meters up steep rocks of the South-Eastern ridge. From beneath the collet, make a difficult traverse to the right and climb 20 meters up a very difficult wall with overhanging sections (using artificial aids, ladders).
Continue as follows:
- 20 meters up steep, crumbling rocks of medium difficulty,
- a 5-meter chimney,
- an 8-meter inclined ledge,
- a 10-meter very difficult corner (using artificial aids, ladders).
From the corner, ascend 40 meters up difficult slabs to a small flat area. From the flat area, climb 12–15 meters up a very difficult wall (using artificial aids, ladders) to the "roof" flat area for a bivouac. The journey from the previous bivouac takes 8–10 hours.
From here, ascend 350–400 meters along steep, snow-covered rocks, slabs, and a snow-covered rocky ridge to reach the summit of Ushba Severная. The journey from the bivouac takes 4–8 hours.
Fig. 36. Ushba from the east