1. Climbing type — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range.
3. Peak: Volnaya Ispaniya (4200 m) via the NE edge.
4. Category 5B complexity (Subortovich route)
5. Route characteristics: Average steepness of the main wall section — 78°. Average steepness — 48°. Height difference — 480 m. Length of sections: Category difficulty section — 135 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: | rock | ice | bolt | chocks | |:----:|:---:|:------:|:-----:| | 18 + 11^X | 7 | 2^X | 19 |

Sportsman's Day via the Eastern Ridge (from Jalovchat Pass), combined, 16 hours

Route description:

Link up on the pass. The ascent via the eastern ridge should start up a snowy slope between rocky outcrops with an initial steepness of about 30° (40 m), then up to 45° (40 m). The snowy slope leads to the 1st low rock tower. From it, 40 m of easy ridging leads to a rock wall (5 m) and an icy (snowy) gully to the right of it, below the 2nd rock tower. The wall has good handholds and after 5 m turns into a steep ridge of the 2nd rock tower. After 40 m, there's an exit onto the 2nd rock tower. There's a control cairn here. For a large group, this ascent variant to the 2nd rock tower is safer. Although another option is possible: traverse the gully with an exit to the opposite rocky ridge (20 m) and then (40 m) move along this ridge over easy to moderately difficult rocks, and in the upper part, traverse the gully to the right (15 m) onto the main ridge. Further, about 20 m on broken rocks (!) of moderate difficulty (intermittent belay). The rocks lead to the 2nd rock tower. There's a control cairn here. Further, 10 m of easy ridging and a wall with a cleft (5–6 m) lead to the rocks of the ridge with good handholds (40 m). Belay using protrusions. Then another 40 m of easy ridging leads to below the 3rd rock tower Palen. The 3rd rock tower is bypassed either on the right - on snow, or on the left - on ledges (belay using protrusions), which lead to a snowy ridge (120 m). The snowy ridge starts with a steep snowy (possibly icy) knife-edge (10 m). Further, 80 m of a not-steep snowy ridge with cornices to the right. The adjacent ridge leads to a rock wall (5 m), which is climbed on the right (along the route); further along a large-block rocky ridge (250 m) and about 20 m on snow, we reach the summit, which is a rocky tower (5 m). There's a control cairn on the tower. (From Jalovchat Pass - 2.5-2 hours).

Irik-Chat western 1B cat. diff.

The ascent to Western Irik-Chat starts from a bivouac located in the Chat gorge on the upper green areas among numerous streams. The ascent is via the central couloir, clearly visible in the relief, which is covered with large talus. Snow remains in places within the couloir. After two to three hours of ascent, the couloir forks. The ascent continues via the left (in the direction of travel) couloir to a snowy saddle between two gendarmes located on the ridge running from the western summit. The gendarmes are overcome head-on. The rocks are not difficult, but belaying is necessary through protrusions and shoulder throws. Then, we reach the ridge leading directly to the summit. The ridge consists of easy rocks, which give way to large talus just before the summit. The entire ascent takes 4–4.5 hours. Descent is via the ascent route.

Fig. 40.

6. Traverse of the Suaryk massif from east to west (P. Yakuts route, cat. 4A). The path from the village of Verkhny Baksan to the initial bivouac on the platforms in the upper reaches of Zugully is described in route 4. From the platforms (a group of 4–8 people) ascent along grassy slopes to the right of the scree descending from the moraine rampart (rockfall along the scree!), and at the top exit to the moraine rampart. Further up along gentle snow-covered scree and simple rocks to a narrow (3–5 m wide) couloir-chimney descending from the col between the Eastern Gendarme and the ascent of the Eastern ridge of the Suaryk East summit. From the platforms 2.5–3 hours. From the scree straight up along the 120-meter couloir-chimney (rockfall, "live" stones, piton belays!). The couloir gradually narrows,

DESCRIPTION

First ascent of the northeast ridge of Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak of cat. diff.

by the group of instructors from "BAXAN" alpine camp on September 15-18, 1958

Caucasus Sylan gorge

Brief characteristics of SYL-TRAN-KEL-BOSHI peak.

Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak (3,806 m) is located in the watershed ridge running east from Elbrus. It separates the Su-Boshi valley from the Irik-Chat valley. The following peaks are located west of Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak in this ridge:

• Mukol
• Kagem
• Irik-Chat to the south of Kuby-Santyg. The path to Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak starts from Verkhniy Baksan settlement.

Ascent Log

1. Category: technical
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su valley
3. Peak: Ullukara (4302 m)
4. Route: via the center of the western face (S. Nagornyy's route), 5B cat. diff., 2.4.176(a)
5. Elevation gain: -682 m. Distance: -1170 m. Length of sections with VI cat. diff.: -80 m. Average steepness:
   • main part of the route (pillar): 50°