Sportsman's Day via the Eastern Ridge (from Jalovchat Pass), combined, 16 hours
Route description:
Link up on the pass. The ascent via the eastern ridge should start up a snowy slope between rocky outcrops with an initial steepness of about 30° (40 m), then up to 45° (40 m). The snowy slope leads to the 1st low rock tower. From it, 40 m of easy ridging leads to a rock wall (5 m) and an icy (snowy) gully to the right of it, below the 2nd rock tower. The wall has good handholds and after 5 m turns into a steep ridge of the 2nd rock tower. After 40 m, there's an exit onto the 2nd rock tower. There's a control cairn here. For a large group, this ascent variant to the 2nd rock tower is safer. Although another option is possible: traverse the gully with an exit to the opposite rocky ridge (20 m) and then (40 m) move along this ridge over easy to moderately difficult rocks, and in the upper part, traverse the gully to the right (15 m) onto the main ridge. Further, about 20 m on broken rocks (!) of moderate difficulty (intermittent belay). The rocks lead to the 2nd rock tower. There's a control cairn here.
Further, 10 m of easy ridging and a wall with a cleft (5–6 m) lead to the rocks of the ridge with good handholds (40 m). Belay using protrusions. Then another 40 m of easy ridging leads to below the 3rd rock tower Palen. The 3rd rock tower is bypassed either on the right - on snow, or on the left - on ledges (belay using protrusions), which lead to a snowy ridge (120 m). The snowy ridge starts with a steep snowy (possibly icy) knife-edge (10 m). Further, 80 m of a not-steep snowy ridge with cornices to the right. The adjacent ridge leads to a rock wall (5 m), which is climbed on the right (along the route); further along a large-block rocky ridge (250 m) and about 20 m on snow, we reach the summit, which is a rocky tower (5 m). There's a control cairn on the tower. (From Jalovchat Pass - 2.5-2 hours).
To the Southeast from the summit, a rocky ridge extends. To the west, a ridge goes to Uzlovaya peak.
Descent from the summit is safer to be done via the ascent route. Recommended to have on the route:
- rock pitons — 4 pieces;
- ice screws — 2 pieces;
- crampons and standard equipment for all ascent participants.
