Ascent Log

1. Category: technical
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su valley
3. Peak: Ullukara (4302 m)
4. Route: via the center of the western face (S. Nagornyy's route), 5B cat. diff., 2.4.176(a)
5. Elevation gain: -682 m. Distance: -1170 m. Length of sections with VI cat. diff.: -80 m. Average steepness:
   • main part of the route (pillar): 50°
   • entire route: 36°
6. Pitons left on the route: rock 8* pcs. nuts 9* pcs. bolt 1* pcs. Previously driven pitons used by the team: rock 8 pcs. nuts 10 pcs. bolt 1 pcs. Total number of pitons used: rock 20 pcs. nuts 19 pcs. bolt 1 pcs.
7. Team's travel time: 14.5 hours / 1 day
8. Team leader: Stolbov Aleksandr Gennadyevich, 1st sports rank Participants:
   • Litvinov Kirill Pavlovich, 2nd sports rank
   • Belkov Yevgeny Vasilyevich, 2nd sports rank
   • Shabunin Aleksandr Anatolyevich, 2nd sports rank
   • Shkabara Vadim Nikolayevich, 2nd sports rank
9. Coach: Ravilov Raif Abdrakhmanovich, Candidate Master of Sports
10. Departure for the route: 6:00 August 16, 2001 Reach the summit: 20:30 August 16, 2001 Return to base camp: 11:00 August 17, 2001

Technical Actions of the Team

August 16, 2001, 5:30. Departed from the tent on the moraine of the Kashkatash glacier towards the route. Simultaneous movement.

6:00. Approached the bergschrund, began work on the route. The first rope team, Shkabara – Belkov, started. Shkabara leads on a double rope and sets up the belay.

At 9:30, performed a pendulum (using a previously driven piton), followed by straightening the belay. 10:00. Reached the first control cairn. 14:00. Overcame the main part of the route "pillar". Approached the location of the second control cairn. Could not find the cairn. Lost a camera while taking photos of the upper part of the wall. 20:00. Reached the ice dome. Rope teams moved simultaneously. By 20:30, having traversed the summit, approached the "summit" cairn on the southwest ridge. Set up a bivouac on a ledge for the night.

August 17, 2001, 5:30. Began descent along the southwest ridge. Simultaneous movement, partly in turns. Stolbov descended first, Litvinov last. By 8:00 descended to the tent and by 11:00 were back at the base camp on the meadow of the Dzhangutan alpine camp.

The route was ascended through teamwork. The lead climber ascended without a backpack.