DESCRIPTION

First ascent of the northeast ridge of Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak of cat. diff.

by the group of instructors from "BAXAN" alpine camp on September 15-18, 1958

Caucasus Sylan gorge

Brief characteristics of SYL-TRAN-KEL-BOSHI peak.

Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak (3,806 m) is located in the watershed ridge running east from Elbrus. It separates the Su-Boshi valley from the Irik-Chat valley. The following peaks are located west of Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak in this ridge:

• Mukol
• Kagem
• Irik-Chat to the south of Kuby-Santyg. The path to Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak starts from Verkhniy Baksan settlement.

Three ridges radiate from the peak. The eastern ridge curves around Sylan-Kel lake down to Verkhniy Baksan. The western, snowy ridge descends to the saddle between Mukol. The northern, rocky ridge steeply descends to the moraine of the glacier, running along the shore of Sylan-Kel lake. Steep glaciers descend towards the lake between the ridges. Rocky spurs run southeast into the Baksan river valley. The first ascent was made in 1874 by a group of foreign climbers consisting of Gordiner, Grave, Murra, and Walker via the western ridge.

The first Soviet ascent was made in 1936 by Grechenin’s group via the eastern ridge from the lake side, and rated by them as a 1B cat. diff. route.

Our group repeatedly heard about the lake area and the peak from the senior instructor of "ELBRUS" alpine camp, V. Stepanov. In "BAXAN" alpine camp, where we worked, an ascent to Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak via the eastern ridge was described. We received detailed consultation on approaches to the lake and the peak from USSR sports master Yu. Moskaltsov, who had been there with a group of tourists that season. After studying the description and consulting, we focused our attention on ascending the unclimbed northeast ridge.

On September 15, the group departed to Verkhniy Baksan settlement to make the ascent.

Group members:

1. Polevoy G.V., USSR sports master — leader
2. Voronova S.A., USSR sports master — member
3. Tolstov K.D., USSR sports master — member
4. Naumenko I.M., 2nd sports category — medic.

Personal and group equipment

1. "Pamirka" tent — 3 pcs.
2. "Meshok" tent — 1 pc.
3. Rope 1 x 30 m — 2 pcs.
4. Rock pitons — 14 pcs.
5. Ice pitons — 3 pcs.
6. Ice axe-hammer — 2 pcs.
7. Ice axe — 2 pcs.
8. Hammer — 1 pc.
9. Primus stove — 1 pc.
10. Gasoline — 1.5 l.
11. Boots — 4 pcs.
12. Storm suits — 4 pcs.
13. Sweaters — 8 pcs.
14. Woolen socks — 8 pcs.
15. Canvas gloves — 4 pairs
16. Goggles — 5 pcs.
17. First aid kit (set) — 1 pc.
18. Carabiners — 12 pcs.
19. Self-belay loops — 8 pcs.

High-calorie food for the group, calculated at 700 g per person per day, for 2.5 days. Total — 7 kg.

Description of approaches

We ascend to Sylan gorge from Verkhniy Baksan settlement via a trail. We reach the first moraine stage and move along the river. Here, we successively reach the second, third, and fourth moraine stages. We reach Sylan-Kel lake via the river. It is located at an altitude of 3,200 m. This is a convenient place for an overnight stay.

The ascent from Verkhniy Baksan settlement to the overnight stay site by the lake takes four to five hours.

A detailed scheme of approaches is attached. …

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT ROUTE

From the overnight stay site, at 5:00, we move along the left bank of the lake to the snowfield, by which we approach the base of the ridge. The ridge initially has a steepness of up to 50°. We move along the slabs with careful alternate belay. The slabs turn into scree in the upper part. Moving along the scree, we reach the first two-meter wall. The wall is bypassed on the right with careful belay, followed by an exit to the slabs. Two rock pitons are hammered in during the bypass. Movement along the slabs should be done cautiously due to many loose rocks. After approximately 80 m of slab climbing, we build the first control cairn.

From the cairn, we move along the ridge and approach the second wall, which is climbed directly with a slight traverse to the right. Piton belay is necessary. The third rock piton is hammered in. The second control cairn is built.

We move along the pre-summit ridge to the right, then sharply to the left. The rocks are moderately difficult and heavily destroyed. Movement should be done with maximum caution. With careful piton belay, the fourth rock piton is hammered in. Further movement goes along steep, smooth slabs with few holds; the first climber goes without a backpack. We ascend to the shoulder of the peak. Moving to the right for half a rope length, we reach Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak. On the peak, in the control cairn, we found a note from the first ascenders, Grechenin’s group, who made the ascent via the eastern ridge on August 5, 1936.

The descent from the peak is made via the eastern ridge; approximately from 1/3 of the ridge, we reach a snowfield with a steepness of 60–70°, and descend with careful belay via an ice axe to the lake — to the overnight stay site.