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Route Description: баст. С стены
Description of a 5B category route ascent made by a team via the bastion on the northern wall of Shchurovsky Peak in Central Caucasus in 1984.
I. Rock class. 2. Central Caucasus. 3. Peak Shchurovsky via the bastion on the north wall. 4. 5B category of difficulty. 5. Elevation gain 825 m, length 1109 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 626 m. Average steepness — 49°, of the bastion — 66°, including 116 m of 6th category sections. 6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 57, spare — 5; chocks — 48, spare — 1; ice screws — 42, spare — 0.
Route Description: 3 гребню
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Taymazi Glavnaya (3803 m) along the western ridge, category 4B, with a technical plan and characteristics of the route.
Ascent Passport
I. Technical class. Combined route. 2. Central Caucasus. Digoria. Main Caucasian Range. 3. Tajmazi Glavnaja 3803 m. Western ridge. 4. Category 3B difficulty. 5. Height difference 600 m. Average steepness of sections determining the complexity of the routes is 60°. The total length of these sections is 160 m. Route length is 1150 m. 6. Pitons driven for belay: rock - 10 ice - 3 placements used - 11
Route Description: З стене
Description of the first ascent via the SW wall of Taymazi Glavnaya peak (3803 m) in the Digor region of the Central Caucasus, category of difficulty 5A.
- Area: Central Caucasus, Digor district, Tana-Don gorge. Main Caucasian Range. Category according to CMGS - 2.6.
- Tajmazi Glavnaya peak, 3803 m, via SW wall.
- Proposed 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Route character - combined.
- Height difference of the route: – from the saddle at the start of the route to the ridge - 250 m (by altimeter); – from the ridge - 180 m Route length along the wall - 579 m. Section lengths:
Route Description: В кф.
Ascent to Zapadnaya Tajmazai (3760 m) via the eastern spurs. Technical difficulty grade, 800 m elevation gain, 7 walking hours.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent category — technical
- Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, Digor district.
- Ascent route: peak Zapadnaya Taymazi in the Taymazi massif via the eastern counterfort (3760 m)
- Ascent characteristics: height difference 800 m, average slope 46°.
- Pitons driven:
- angled — II
- ice — —
- drilled (shlyambur) — —
- Number of travel hours — 7 (from bivouac to summit).
Route Description: С гребню
Climbing passport for the ascent to the summit "300 лет Санкт-Петербурга" (3505 m) via the North Ridge, category 1B, in Digoria, Caucasus.
Ascent Passport
- Caucasus, Digoria, Chirh ridge, section number 2.6.
- 300 years of St. Petersburg — 3505 m; via the North ridge.
- Proposed 1B cat. dif.; first ascent.
- Route character — rocky.
- Route height difference — 700 m (from the base of the ridge). Length of the key part of the route — 50 m (from the exit point to the North ridge, from point R1). Length of sections with 4 cat. dif. — 2 m. Steepness of the main part of the route — 70°.
Route Description: С гребню
### Ascent Route to Peak 3505 m (300 Years of St. Petersburg) in Chirkh Ridge with 3A Difficulty Level Description of the ascent route to Peak 3505 m, also known as "300 Years of St. Petersburg", located in the Chirkh ridge, categorized with a 3A level of difficulty.
Route Description
R0–R1 (when ascending from Gebi valley): The path from the Western side is easier to navigate and access the Northern ridge. From the overnight stays at the bottom of the valley, we head East, ascending the Western slope of Chirh ridge. We need to go up to the right along the scree slope, orienting towards the right edge of the central part of Chirh ridge, to the rightmost standalone tower - this is at 3505 m. There are still a number of rock gendarmes to the right of it, but they are lower in height. Along the scree couloir, and in the upper part - along the rocks on its right side, we go up towards the col between the peaks of Ev. Goluba (3503 m) on the left and 300 years of St. Petersburg (3505 m) on the right. Before reaching the col, we divert to the right along rocky ledges and walls between them onto the rocks to the right of the narrow couloir; and exit onto the Northern ridge of peak 3505 m. The entire section is about 900 m. From the overnight stays, it takes 3-4 hours. R1–R2: Along the Northern ridge to 3505 m, mostly on its right side, ascend 20 m along rocks of 2nd category difficulty. To the right of the narrow ridge:
- traverse of 4th category difficulty; 70°; 2 m. After that, another 25 m; 1-2 category difficulty, and ascend to peak 3505 m - 300 years of St. Petersburg. The entire section is about 50 m; 40-50°. There are no signs of human presence on the summit. The summit is a good panoramic point. Descent is via the ascent route.
Route Description
Route Description: В гребню и С стене башни
Description of a category 1B route to the summit of Uazakhoh (3529 m) via the Eastern ridge and the North wall of the tower in the Caucasus.
Ascent Passport
- Rock class.
- Caucasus. Digoria, Rocky ridge, section number in KMGV 2.6.
- Uazakhoh (3529 m), via the Eastern ridge and the Northern wall of the tower.
- 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Height difference of the route 530 m, route length about 1 km. Average steepness of the route 30°.
- Driven pitons: 2/0; закладок 3/0. Left on the route rock anchors — 2, for descent.
- Team's walking hours – 6 hours, days – 1.
- Comfortable overnight stay.
Route Description: СЗ гребню
Ascent to the summit of Tsikhvarga (4132 m) by the North-west ridge, a combined route of 2B category of complexity, located in the Main ridge of the Central Caucasus.
Tsikhvarga
Tsikhvarga (4132 m) is a key peak of the Main Ridge between the peak Kain to the northwest and the Gurzivtsek pass to the southeast. Beyond the pass lies the peak Saualkhoyne. The northern ridge of Tsikhvarga extends into a long spur with the peaks Tsagor and Legauta. The spur separates the Fastag gorges to the east and Bartuy to the west, with glaciers of the same name in their upper reaches. 80. Tsikhvarga via the Northwest Ridge (combined route, category II) From the settlement of Dzinaga (group of 4-20 people), cross the Karaugom river by bridge and follow a forest road to the settlement of Nogkau. From here, move along a forest trail on the right bank of the Bartuy river. Further:
- the trail crosses to the left bank by bridge,
- after 2-3 km, returns to the right bank,
- along the right bank, approaches the right-bank moraine. Along the moraine ridge, then via scree and a steep snowy slope, reach the Bartuy glacier 200-250 m above its tongue. Initially, ascend on the right side of the glacier (closed crevices), then cross it to the left and emerge under the left side of the first step of the icefall on the Eastern branch of the Bartuy glacier. Further:
Route Description: В гребню
The route of 4A category of complexity to the top of Tzukhgarty via the Eastern ridge, including a rock ascent and traverse with piton belay, duration - 8-10 hours.
Fig. 4
8. Tzukhgarty via the East Ridge (V. Popov's combined route, category 4A, fig. 4).
The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the
saddle of the Sugan Ridge between the peaks of Galdor on the right and Tzukhgarty on
the left is described in routes 1, 6.
On the saddle, turn left and approach along the ridge to the rocky ascent of Tzukhgarty's
East Ridge.
Climb 40 m up the steep, moderately difficult rocks of the ascent ("live" stones -
protection) under the vertical walls.
Route Description: 3 гребню
Description of the 4B category climbing route to the Jaylyk summit with a detailed analysis of the path, belay, and descent.
The summit of Dzhailyk has a 4B category of difficulty, the nature of the route is combined. The summit of Dzhailyk is located on the sixth north-western Adyr spur. To the east of Dzhailyk (in the eastern branch) lies the summit of Cheget-bashi, to the south lies the summit of Kichkidar, and to the west lies the summit of Tyu. The summit of Dzhailyk is surrounded by glaciers: the eastern and western ones, as well as the northern Pnom-Su. Three ridges branch out from the summit of Dzhailyk:
- to the Donkina pass,
- the eastern one - towards the glacier of the summit Dzhailyk Kinchat,
- the western one - turning into a long rocky fence, separating the glaciers of the western Dzhailyk and the northern Pnom-Su. To the north-east, Dzhailyk drops with sheer walls and steep slopes, falling into the ridge between the massifs of Dzhailyk and Tyu-Tyu-S. The route begins with an overnight stay on the Black Rocks in their branch from the western ridge to Dzhailyk, in the form of a short, barely noticeable rocky ridge. From the overnight site, it goes towards the main western ridge. At the beginning, the path goes along broken rocks to the first "gendarmes", which is bypassed on the left along a steep snow-ice slope. Above the "gendarmes" there is a snow shelf, then a simple rocky ridge of broken rocks begins. The length of this section of the ridge is 35-40 m. Having passed this ridge, they reach the second "gendarmes" with sheer walls to the north-west and east. This "gendarmes" is bypassed on the left along a snow-ice couloir. Having passed 35-40 m along the couloir, one should climb up a 5-meter sloping shelf, leading to a gentle slab. From the slab: