Ascent Passport
- Ascent category — technical
- Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, Digor district.
- Ascent route: peak Zapadnaya Taymazi in the Taymazi massif via the eastern counterfort (3760 m)
- Ascent characteristics: height difference 800 m, average slope 46°.
- Pitons driven:
- angled — II
- ice — —
- drilled (shlyambur) — —
- Number of travel hours — 7 (from bivouac to summit).
- Team name: group of climbers from Rostov-on-Don a/l "Digoria"
Team leader: Shavdulin V. V., 1st sports category.
Participants:
- Arabadzhiev M. T., 1st sports category
- Gazarbekyan A. G., 1st sports category
- Pashchenko V. V., 1st sports category
- Team coach: International Master of Sports Artshevsky D. D.
- Departure and return date: August 8, 1977 – August 9, 1977
Description of the route
The summit is in front of us! We decide to go straight up, as there are many movement options, and in this case, when they are generally equal, we choose the shortest.
First rope length:
- The rocks are not difficult with large ledges.
- A short traverse to the left, and we are up against slabs of very solid construction, with a small number of holds.
- Along a vaguely defined angle (along the junction of its sides) a diagonal crack goes up — a rope length of difficult and pleasant climbing. Protection — pitons.
Then the rope length:
- Straight up steep blocks, holding well, especially on friction rocks.
- We abut against the ridge coming from the central summit, about 15 meters from the summit of Zapadnaya Taymazi.
- The exit to the ridge is difficult, protection — pitons.
- The overhanging rock is negotiated on balance with a slight traverse to the left and via a system of pockets — exit to the ridge.
15 m of easy climbing — and we are on the summit.
From the bivouac, the group took 7 hours to complete the route.
Descent via the 3rd category route:
- along the western ridge to the Taymazi pass,
- to the Zapadny Taymazi glacier,
- along its left side,
- we return to the bivouac via the moraine.
Descent took 2 hours.
The weather favored the ascent; the route was in excellent condition, with no snow on the rocks. However, in case of snowfall or bad weather, the upper part of the route becomes much more challenging.