Tsikhvar­ga

Tsikh­var­ga (4132 m) is a key peak of the Main Ridge between the peak Kain to the northwest and the Gur­ziv­ts­ek pass to the southeast. Beyond the pass lies the peak Sau­al­khoyne. The northern ridge of Tsikh­var­ga extends into a long spur with the peaks Tsagor and Legauta. The spur separates the Fastag gorges to the east and Bartuy to the west, with glaciers of the same name in their upper reaches.

80. Tsikh­var­ga via the Northwest Ridge (combined route, category II)

From the settlement of Dzinaga (group of 4-20 people), cross the Karaugom river by bridge and follow a forest road to the settlement of Nogkau. From here, move along a forest trail on the right bank of the Bartuy river.

Further:

• the trail crosses to the left bank by bridge,
• after 2-3 km, returns to the right bank,
• along the right bank, approaches the right-bank moraine.

Along the moraine ridge, then via scree and a steep snowy slope, reach the Bartuy glacier 200-250 m above its tongue. Initially, ascend on the right side of the glacier (closed crevices), then cross it to the left and emerge under the left side of the first step of the icefall on the Eastern branch of the Bartuy glacier.

Further:

• keeping to the left side, pass the first step of the icefall,
• cross the Eastern branch of the glacier to the right above it,
• approach under the left side of the second step of the icefall on the Southern branch of the glacier.

Then:

• pass the icefall on the left side,
• along the glacier, approach under the Third step of the icefall.

The Third step is best overcome in the center, with an exit onto the upper plateau of the Southern branch of the Bartuy glacier. Along the plateau, approach under the eastern slopes of the peak. On the plateau is the initial bivouac. From Nogkau, 10-14 hours.

From the bivouac, cross the plateau to the left, then approach under the ice-snow southwest slope of the Northwest ridge of Tsikh­var­ga. From the plateau:

• overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge,
• ascend a steep ice-snow slope onto the Northwest ridge of Tsikh­var­ga.

From here, ascend simple, occasionally steep (protection) rocks of the Northwest ridge, bypassing three rock pinnacles to the left (pitched protection). Beyond them, along the simple Northwest snow-covered rocky ridge, approach under the summit ascent. Via a steep 100-120-meter sharp ice-snow ascent (overhangs — pitched protection), reach the summit of Tsikh­var­ga. From the initial bivouac, 5-7 hours.

Descent follows the ascent route. Duration of the route is 3 days.

Literature:

• Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoriya, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.