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Fig. 4

  1. Tzukhgarty via the East Ridge (V. Popov's combined route, category 4A, fig. 4).

The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the saddle of the Sugan Ridge between the peaks of Galdor on the right and Tzukhgarty on the left is described in routes 1, 6.

On the saddle, turn left and approach along the ridge to the rocky ascent of Tzukhgarty's East Ridge.

Climb 40 m up the steep, moderately difficult rocks of the ascent ("live" stones - protection) under the vertical walls.

Traverse 80 m under the wall along a snowy ledge to the left (piton protection).

20 m before the ledge turns into a couloir:

  • Climb 40 m up the wall's rocks of above moderate difficulty to the edge (piton protection, the ledge further is exposed to stonefall).
  • Climb 40 m up the edge on the right side of the couloir.
  • Traverse along the smooth rocks of moderate difficulty in the steep couloir (stonefall is possible) to the left.
  • Continue until reaching a narrow, dark, wet couloir.

From here, climb 40 m up the rocks of moderate difficulty on the right side of the wet couloir, then along the smoothed, higher — strongly destroyed rocks of moderate difficulty in the 120-meter gully to approach under the vertical wall (piton protection).

Climb the 80-meter wall of above moderate difficulty (piton protection) to the scree slopes and exit onto the East Ridge. Then:

  • Bypass the Big (East) gendarme on the left via scree
  • Reach the summit ridge
  • Ascend to the summit of Tzukhgarty along the simple, местами заснеженному скальному East Ridge

From the bivouac on the saddle, 8–10 hours.

Descent via the South counterforce (see route 9). Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

Sources

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