Move on to the snowy saddle between the North and main peaks of Bogatyry. The route goes along the rocks on the saddle itself. There are cornices on the eastern side (be careful!). To overcome the fourth gendarme, one should drive ice screws into the snowy slope and stretch the handrail. The fifth gendarme is overcome head-on with cutting steps on the icy slope with a steepness up to 70° when approaching its constituent rocks. The rocks are of medium difficulty and are overcome with belay. Descent from the gendarme to a small dent, then to the pre-summit rocks. The rocks of medium difficulty lead to the main peak of Bogatyry. The ascent to the summit itself goes along the snowy slope with a steepness of up to 60° (with running belay). The descent from the main peak goes along the snowy slope with several drops. A gendarme blocking the path is overcome head-on; the rocks are of medium difficulty. Then, the path leads to the saddle between the Central and South peaks of Bogatyry. The ascent to the South peak of Bogatyry goes along the snowy slope with a steepness of up to 45°, and the descent from it goes along the snowy slope no steeper than 40°. The descent leads to the saddle between the South peak of Bogatyry and the peak of Kolesnik, the last object of the traverse route. The peak of Kolesnik is an ice dome, above which three groups of rocks rise. The middle group is the summit. The route to the summit presents no particular difficulties. From the saddle, the ascent to the summit begins with a 100-meter snowy slope (sometimes with aufeis). Further on:

• there are easy and medium rocks of the southwestern ridge
• further to the east, there is a second rocky ridge, which is the highest point of the summit.

Тraverse of the Jамalak­tau — Di­na­mo­vets peaks, 3B cat. route. The approaches and the route to the Jамalak­tau peak are described in the section on ascents to this peak. From the Jамalak­tau peak, the descent goes down a couloir with snow and talus and leads to a destroyed ridge running in a southerly direction. At the point where the ridge turns southwest-southwest, descend from the last gendarme via an internal corner. Hook insurance required. Further along the destroyed ridge, the gendarmes are bypassed on the right. Behind the ridge is a snowy isthmus, to the left are rock formations resembling towers. Descent via a small couloir to the Tumanny Pass. Stick to the left rocks. The pass elevation is 3700 m. A convenient place to spend the night. From the peak to the pass takes 2.5–3 hours.

DESCRIPTION

7.2.54

Traversing peak "Zharsay" with ascent via the north-eastern ridge from Zharsay glacier and descent via the north-western ridge to "Bezymyannyy" pass. The "Zharsay" peak is located in the main ridge of Trans-Ili Alatau in the south-eastern direction from the "Metallurg" peak. The height of the peak is 4750 m (rao No. 1).

Day 1

The path from "Talgar" camp goes along a steep grassy slope to the east to the training rocks. Further, crossing the moraine of "Ozerny" glacier, we exit to its right (orographic) part, and the movement goes up along a clearly marked trail to a wide couloir (with reddish rock) descending from "Kolokolnikov" peak. At this point, we turn to the right and exit to "Ozerny" glacier and, moving along its middle part, approach the foot of "Taverentaau" pass. Time from the camp to the foot of the pass is 3.5–4 hours. The ascent to the pass goes along a wide, steep couloir covered with small and medium talus. In the middle and upper part of the couloir, the talus is partially covered with snow. The group used snowfields for the ascent. The ascent to the pass takes 2–2.5 hours. On the pass, the group left a note, the pass category is 2A.

Route Description

The Seven Spires of Tuyuk-Su are located in the Malo-Almatinsky spur and stretch from northeast to southwest. Each Spire has its unique shape:

• The first and second resemble the back of a two-humped camel
• The seventh resembles a fang in its outlines Almost all of them have ridges of rocks descending to the south. The traverse of Tuyuk-Su Spires begins with an approach to the Tuyuk-Su glaciers and Tuyuk-Su Spires under the eponymous pass. The initial bivouac is on the black moraine opposite the Igla Tuyuk-Su pass. The ascent to the pass should start early on a snow-ice slope with an increasing steepness up to 55°. Insurance is provided through an ice axe, and when there are outcrops, ice screws are used. Crevices are overcome using snow bridges with careful insurance. Due to possible rockfalls, one should proceed along the middle. The traverse begins with the seventh Spire on heavily destroyed rocks of medium difficulty. Descent is made along the ascent path, and then towards the sixth Spire, which is a 30-meter pyramid with a smooth red wall. The ascent up it is complicated:
• There are few footholds;

1. Ascent from Kopr glacier via the southern ridge.
2. Ascent from the North-West. Ascent from the Kopr glacier via the southern ridge, route category 3B (fig. 45). The Kopr peak is located in the main ridge of Trans-Ili Alatau, between the Metallurg peak and the Talgar massif, to the North-East of the latter. The path to the peak from the Talgar mountaineering camp:

• Up the Middle Talgar gorge along the trail.
• From the signpost turn left towards the Kopr glacier.
• Then go along the grassy slopes, then along the ancient moraines: first along the terminal ones, then along the right (orographic) lateral ones.
• The trail is clearly visible.
• Overnight stay at Rakhimov bivouac.

Ascent Passport.

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Region of ascent, ridge — 1–3 Tian-Shan Talassky ridge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Manas, 4482 m D — 3 ridge 4. Expected category of difficulty — 1B 5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section I-5 category of difficulty, average steepness in degrees — height difference 1850 m, length of sections: I category of difficulty — 1800 m II category of difficulty — 50 m

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — traverse 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Alay Range 3. Ascent route — traverse of Alay Range from

• peak 5529 m to peak Tamdykul with passage of
• peak 5529 m (peak "30 Years of Victory"), ascent via eastern wall, first ascent,
• peak 5300 m (peak "Pyramida"), first ascent,
• peak 5308 m, first ascent,
• peak 5380 m (peak "Zaщitnikov Leningrada"), first ascent,
• peak 5200 m, first ascent,

Ascent to the summit — DVUZUBKA from the Ivizak peak — 1B category of difficulty. The ascent to the summit is made from the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac, located under the Bivachnaya peak. From the camp, you should:

• go up along the Igizak River
• first along grassy slopes and scree
• then, after 40–50 minutes of movement, cross to the left bank of the river
• begin the ascent up the steep western slope of the valley The slope has rock outcrops. Further ascent on snow leads to the Big Igizak cirque and the Dvuzybka on the plateau. Between the peaks of Bolshoy Igizak and Dvuzybka, there is an unnamed peak. The ascent to Dvuzybka should be made from the saddle between the unnamed peak (Dvuzybka pass). The exit to the pass is on snow. From the pass:
• to the right along the scree,
• then along easy rocks, ascend along the ridge. Then the ridge narrows, and small walls up to 2 m appear. Insurance is simultaneous. Before the summit, you should descend into a shallow depression to the right along a ledge, as the ridge has steep walls to the left. The ascent to the summit from the saddle is 5 m along moderately difficult rocks.

CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE ALPINISM FEDERATION OF THE USSR 1988 ROCK CLIMBING CLASS 1st place.

Report

On the ascent to the summit 4230 m (Asan) via the center of the Northwest wall Team of the Alpine Club of the 12th Sports Club of the SAVO Team leader: Ovcharenko S.V. Senior coach: Ilyinsky E.T., Honored Coach of the USSR

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