Тraverse of the Jамalaktau — Dinamovets peaks, 3B cat. route.
The approaches and the route to the Jамalaktau peak are described in the section on ascents to this peak. From the Jамalaktau peak, the descent goes down a couloir with snow and talus and leads to a destroyed ridge running in a southerly direction. At the point where the ridge turns southwest-southwest, descend from the last gendarme via an internal corner. Hook insurance required.
Further along the destroyed ridge, the gendarmes are bypassed on the right. Behind the ridge is a snowy isthmus, to the left are rock formations resembling towers. Descent via a small couloir to the Tumanny Pass. Stick to the left rocks. The pass elevation is 3700 m. A convenient place to spend the night. From the peak to the pass takes 2.5–3 hours.
The ascent to the Dinamovets peak is avalanche-prone. Pass early in the morning.
- The 1st gendarme from the pass is bypassed on the left, exiting onto the ridge with a cornice.
- The ridge before the next gendarme is traversed using the "konkovy" method.
- Then, across moderately difficult iced rocks, there is an exit to a narrow shelf. This is the key location. Careful insurance is required.
- Exiting the shelf requires great attention: one must navigate around the outer corner.
- Then follows a rocky ridge and a platform, followed by gendarmes and bypassing them via shelves.
- After this section, there is an ascent to the last gendarme before the knife-edge ridge.
- The descent from the gendarme is not difficult.
The next section is a 250–300 m long ridge. Along it, approach the "hat" before the Dinamovets peak and exit onto the peak via snow.
Descent from the peak:
- Initially, 100 m to the west, then to the south, crossing three pre-summit couloirs — exiting onto the southern ridge of the peak.
- The first two gendarmes are taken head-on, while the subsequent ones are bypassed on the left.
- Descent to the Severnyy ТЭУ glacier via a wide couloir.
- The path from the peak along the ridge requires careful, alternating insurance.
- The entire traverse takes 13–14 hours.
Recommendations for Climbers
- Number of participants: 4–6 people.
- Initial bivouac on the Solnechnyy glacier.
- Departure from the initial bivouac no later than 5:00.
- Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) 2 × 30 m main ropes; b) 3 ice hooks.