Тraverse of the Jамalak­tau — Di­na­mo­vets peaks, 3B cat. route.

The approaches and the route to the Jамalak­tau peak are described in the section on ascents to this peak. From the Jамalak­tau peak, the descent goes down a couloir with snow and talus and leads to a destroyed ridge running in a southerly direction. At the point where the ridge turns southwest-southwest, descend from the last gendarme via an internal corner. Hook insurance required.

Further along the destroyed ridge, the gendarmes are bypassed on the right. Behind the ridge is a snowy isthmus, to the left are rock formations resembling towers. Descent via a small couloir to the Tumanny Pass. Stick to the left rocks. The pass elevation is 3700 m. A convenient place to spend the night. From the peak to the pass takes 2.5–3 hours.

The ascent to the Di­na­mo­vets peak is avalanche-prone. Pass early in the morning.

  • The 1st gendarme from the pass is bypassed on the left, exiting onto the ridge with a cornice.
  • The ridge before the next gendarme is traversed using the "konkovy" method.
  • Then, across moderately difficult iced rocks, there is an exit to a narrow shelf. This is the key location. Careful insurance is required.
  • Exiting the shelf requires great attention: one must navigate around the outer corner.
  • Then follows a rocky ridge and a platform, followed by gendarmes and bypassing them via shelves.
  • After this section, there is an ascent to the last gendarme before the knife-edge ridge.
  • The descent from the gendarme is not difficult.

The next section is a 250–300 m long ridge. Along it, approach the "hat" before the Di­na­mo­vets peak and exit onto the peak via snow.

Descent from the peak:

  • Initially, 100 m to the west, then to the south, crossing three pre-summit couloirs — exiting onto the southern ridge of the peak.
  • The first two gendarmes are taken head-on, while the subsequent ones are bypassed on the left.
  • Descent to the Se­ver­ny­y ТЭУ glacier via a wide couloir.
  • The path from the peak along the ridge requires careful, alternating insurance.
  • The entire traverse takes 13–14 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

  1. Number of participants: 4–6 people.
  2. Initial bivouac on the So­l­nech­ny­y glacier.
  3. Departure from the initial bivouac no later than 5:00.
  4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) 2 × 30 m main ropes; b) 3 ice hooks.

Sources

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