Along the left edge of the central buttress of the North-West wall, category 3B difficulty

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Omot river towards the North-West wall of Oмот mountain. After 1 hour, start ascending through a couloir, heading towards the left edge of the central buttress. The first uncomplicated rocks of the buttress can be bypassed on the right, leading to a narrow ledge below the first key section of the route — an 80-meter bastion. The first wall with a sufficient number of holds is climbed diagonally from right to left towards a vertical inner corner, partially filled with ice. Climbing is tense, using ITO. Exit from the corner occurs along an inclined snowy ledge, at the end of which feather-like rock blocks are located to the right and directly along the direction of movement, which can be used to organize belays. The belay station is inconvenient and semi-pendant. Further:

• A crack filled with snow and ice goes vertically upwards. Climbing is complex, using ITO.
• The next wall with a limited number of holds and a small overhang is climbed directly left-upwards through a wide crack, leading to the top of the bastion. The ledge at the top is sufficient to accommodate three to four people. Further movement is possible with alternating belays; one should stay slightly to the left of the buttress rocks. In this part of the route, one should be cautious of slippery snow-covered slabs. The second 50-meter bastion is the next key section:
• Movement along a steep ledge at the base of the bastion to the left and through a crack in the wall, filled with snow, onto a small ledge below the top of the bastion. Climbing is not straightforward due to the limited number of holds.
• Then up the wall to the left onto the top of the second bastion.

Through Edelweiss Pass, Category 1B

Section	Length	Steepness	Difficulty	Description
R0–R1	250	30–40	1–2	Pressing against the left edge, upper part
R1–R2	300	25	1	Snow cornices on the right for the entire length of the section; move along the slope upwards at a distance of 10–15 m from the ridge. Simultaneously.
R2–R3	8	45	2	Bypass the cornice. Alternating belay.
R3–R4	450		1	Simultaneous movement along the ridge, belay over the ridge. Three distinct pinnacles. The first is bypassed on the right. The second — on the left.
R4–R5	10	48	2	The third pinnacle of the ridge is climbed head-on along an inclined edge. Alternating belay. Loose rocks.
R5–R6	50		1	Pre-summit rise along the ridge.
It is recommended to start the ascent before 7:00 AM. In this case, the pass is overcome before it is exposed to the sun.

Route Descriptions for Climbing Fregat Peak

Via the Central Counterfort, Category 2B

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Ulun River towards Fregat Peak, heading towards the central counterfort. After 1 hour, start ascending via the couloir, keeping to its right side. In the upper part, the couloir becomes steeper, leading to a wide snow-ice chimney. Climbing is tense. In the upper part of the chimney, there are "live," slightly overhanging, crosswise blocks that require careful passage. It is recommended to set up a station or belay above them, in the lower part of a small chimney that leads to the ridge. Further movement is possible:

• Simultaneous or alternating movement to the gendarme (the first key point of the route). A sloping shelf to the right of it transitions into a steep, snow-covered wall with ice in the crevices. After passing it, we enter a steep internal angle with smooth walls, leading to the top of the gendarme, where a station needs to be set up. Subsequent movement occurs strictly along the ridge, requiring accuracy and attention. After the ridge, depending on the route's condition, one can:
• Go through an icy chimney with a transition to the wall and ascend it to the left,
• Or move along the right wall of the chimney, only reaching the wall in its upper part. The last 40 meters of the counterfort, as well as further movement along the ridge to the summit, must be done in alternating steps, carefully belaying, as a fall from here could have the most severe consequences.

9. Descriptions of Ascent Routes to Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m)

Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m) – Mt. Ulun (2221 m), Category 1B Difficulty

From the base camp, move along the left tributary of the Ulun River, then towards the Edelweiss Pass. After 20–30 minutes of walking, start ascending up and to the right along the Eastern Counterfort of Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m). After 1 hour and 10 minutes of ascent along a relatively simple snow-covered ridge with step-kicking, reach the Northeast Ridge of the summit, then continue along it for 20 minutes to the summit. The ridge is not steep and is snow-covered, but mutual belay is necessary due to the presence of snow cornices. Crampons are mandatory! The summit of Khabarovskikh Alpinistok is a pyramid with steep walls dropping to the Southwest and Southeast. The further path is clearly visible from the summit. The traverse follows the ridge directed from North to South. Characteristics of the ridge:

• rocky, fairly narrow;
• drops steeply on both sides with walls up to 60 m deep;
• partially snow-covered, which somewhat simplifies movement;
• features low "gendarme" formations that can only be overcome head-on.

Brief Description of the Route Approach

From the base camp, ascend along the trail in a southerly direction until reaching the high-altitude rocky plateau (1 hour). Cross the plateau in the direction of peak Munhuluk to the southwest and descend into the Ozernoe gorge (1 hour 30 minutes). Continue along the gorge following the lakes to the south, then the gorge turns right under the northern wall of peak Munhuluk. Approach the base of the ice tie-in (1 hour 30 minutes). The route begins from a snow corrie on the left part of the ice tie-in.

Massif

Route Profile

Climbing Passport

1. High-altitude technical class.
2. Himalayas.
3. Dhaulagiri I — 8167 m, via the Northeast Ridge.
4. Proposed category — 5B.
5. Elevation gain — 3400 m (by altimeter); length — 7100 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 2500 m; Average steepness:
   • main part of the route — 35°
   • entire route — 30°.

Ascent Passport

1. Himalayas, Main Himalayan Range, section 10.1.
2. Lhotse Middle Peak, 8414 m via the East Ridge
3. Assumed 6B cat. diff., first ascent
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 3100 m. Route length: 10550 m. Length of sections with 5–6B cat. diff.: 210 m. Average slope:

• Main part of the route — 29°

1. Central Himalayas, Manaslu-Himal region, Gorkha, Buri-Gandaki river gorge.
2. Manaslu peak (8163 m), North-East slope
3. Submitted — 6A category of complexity, first ascent
4. Route character — combined
5. Height difference of the route — 2963 m Route length — 4754 m. Length of sections:

• V category of complexity — 55 m
• VI category of complexity — 4 m. Average steepness:
• main part of the route (sections) — 68°
• entire route — 42°

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA Demchenko team to Mont Blanc (Monte Bianco), 4808 m, via the "Italian Classic from Gonella Hut" route, 2B cat. diff. (G. Bonin, L. Grasselli, A. Ratti, J. Gradin, A. Proment, 1890) Team leader: A. V. Yurkin Senior coach: E. V. Kuznetsova

Ascent Details

1. Alps (Italy, Val d'Aosta region), Val Veny, Courmayeur area. № 10.3 (according to KGBM 2011)
2. Mont Blanc (Mont Blanc (French), Monte Bianco (Italian)) 4808 m from Gonella Hut (G. Bonin, L. Grasselli, A. Ratti, J. Gradin, A. Proment, 1890)
3. Category: 2B cat. diff.
4. Route type: combined

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko to the summit of Aiguille du Tour South (3544 m) via the classic route from Albert Premier refuge, 1B cat. dif., Savoy Alps, Chamonix area Leader: A. V. Yurkin Senior coach: E. V. Kuznetsova Moscow 2014

Ascent Details

1. France. Savoy Alps, Chamonix area. Section No. 10.3 (according to KGBM 2013).
2. Summit Aiguille du Tour (Aiguille du Tour) 3544 m. "Classic" from Albert Premier refuge (C. G. Heathcote, M. Andermatten, 1864).
3. Proposed category – 1B cat. dif.