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Report on the first ascent of Chirinkol peak 3528 m via the South-Eastern ridge from Burevestnik South pass, difficulty category 3A.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Chirikol 3528 m via the South-Eastern ridge from Burvestnik Yuzhny pass according to the route of 3A category of complexity by the AUSB Uzunkol team from Stavropol on 19.08.2023

I. Ascent Report

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderRomakh Dmitry Viktorovich, 2nd sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsKlimonov Kirill Artemovich, 1st sports rank
1.3Full name of coachKobylyatsky Nikolai Grigorievich
1.4OrganizationAUSB Uzunkol
2. Characteristics of the ascent object
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Report on the first ascent of the Southwest Ridge of Dolomit Yuzhny Peak (3719 m) in the Kichkinekol gorge on August 6, 2021, complexity category 4B.

Report

on the first ascent to the summit Dolomit Yuzhny via the Southwest Edge approximately 4B category of complexity by the team of Voronezh Region August 6, 2021

I. Climbing Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderDmitrienko Evgeny Vladimirovich, MS
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Report on the first ascent to the summit of Dolomit Yuzhnyy Malyy via the Western wall (4A cat. dif.) by the Voronezh Region team on August 11, 2021

Report

on the first ascent to the summit Dolomit Yuzhnyy Malyy (proposed) via the Western wall, approximately 4A category of complexity by the team from Voronezh region on August 11, 2021

I. Climbing Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, sports rank of the leaderDanilkova Ekaterina Borisovna, CMS
1.2Full Name, sports rank of the participantsDmitrienko Evgeniy Vladimirovich, MS
1.3Full Name of the coachTorshin Mikhail Viktorovich
1.4OrganizationVROO "Sports Alpine Federation"
2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object
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Report on the first ascent of Category 2B route via the northwestern ridge of Uzunkol peak (3487 m) in the Caucasus.

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF UZUNKOL VIA THE NORTH-WEST RIDGE ROUTE, CATEGORY 2B, BY THE "SAMARA-PENZA" TEAM, AUGUST 24, 2022

1. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, Sports Rank of the LeaderKlimov Sergey Alexandrovich, CMS
1.2Full Name, Sports Rank of ParticipantsStrochkov Maxim Sergeevich, 1st sports rank
1.3Full Name of CoachesErokhov Igor Yurievich, Knyazeva Marina Alexandrovna
1.4OrganizationSROO "FASO"
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
2.1RegionUzunkol
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Report on the second ascent of the 5B category difficulty route to the summit of Adyrsu (4370 m) via the Southwest wall through the central bastion in 2008.

Report

on the second ascent of Mt. Adyrsu (4370 m) via the South-West wall through the central bastion from August 8 to 10, 2008, by the sports group of AUSB "Ullutau" consisting of:

  • Privalov S.A. - leader
  • Olkhovikov A.V.

Contacts

AUSB "Ullutau" Leader Privalov S.A. Coach Semykin B.I. 361602 KBR, Nalchik, tel. 8-8662-77-09-87 elimaso3@mail.ru, tel. 8-9272527095 sembi53@mail.ru, tel. 8-9053319763 The heights mentioned in the report were determined:

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Description of the route to Serov Peak via the southeast wall, difficulty category 4B, with a detailed description of the sections and climbing conditions.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — technically challenging.
  2. Ascent area according to KTMGV — Caucasus. From Chiperazau Pass to Kitlod Pass.
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Serov Peak 4080 m, Southeast wall.
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B.
  5. Route characteristics:
    • Elevation difference 500 m
    • Average steepness 45–50°
    • Section length:
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Category 1B route to the summit 40-letiya Tatarskoy ASSR via Dolomit South pass with a description of the path to the pass, ascent, and descent.

M82. 40-letiya Tatarskoy ASSR Main Peak from Dolomit South Col

(rock route, cat. 1B, M. Kadyrov, 1961) From the bivouac on the lake shore, ascend the scree slopes past the upper Dolomit Lake towards the Dolomit South Col. Follow a gentle snowy slope closer to the slopes of 40-letiya Tatarskoy ASSR, and then via its mid-section reach the col. 2 hours from the lake. When the col's slope is snow-free, ascend the col via steep scree and terraces below the slopes of Dolomit South Peak to the snowy slopes, traversing right to reach the col's saddle. From the col, follow the broken ridge (below and left of its crest), overcoming the "Stoplb" gendarme on the right via a cleft and the "Igla" gendarme on the left via a ledge (with eaves on the right!), to ascend to a shoulder on the ridge and then via ledges to the Main Peak. From the summit, descend along the 350-meter ridge into a gap to a gendarme. Traverse it on a ledge on the left, then ascend a couloir to the South Peak. 4 hours from the col. From the summit, descend steep rocky ridge onto a snowy saddle and continue along the ridge trending towards the lakes. After 500 m, turn left and descend into a small rock cirque between this ridge and large grassy-scree ridges trending towards the Kichkinekol Maly Col. From here, follow the scree and grassy slopes to the second Dolomity terrace. 2.5 hours from the South Peak.

40-letiya Tatarskoy ASSR

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Report on the first ascent to the 40th Anniversary of the TASSR peak — South summit via the southern ridge from the Maly Kichkinikol pass, category 2A.

Report

On the first ascent to the peak 40 years of TASSR — South

via the southern ridge from the Maly Kichkinekol pass. Stavropol Regional Federation of Alpinism of Russia.

Contact Information

  • The ascent was made by climbers from Nevinnomyssk and Stavropol, with the goal of mastering a new route.
  • Ascent leader
  • Tereshchenko Artem Pavlovich
  • Group members
  • Pekin Andrey Nikolaevich
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Ascent certificate for Bashil peak (4257 m) via the South slope, category of difficulty 5B, climbed by the team led by Merlis V.P., Master of Sports of International Class.

Appendix I

Ascent Record

I. Ascent class — rock: 2. Ascent region — Main Caucasus Range and its spurs from Chipperazau pass to Orotokara peak. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Bashil peak, 4257 m, 4800 m via the south face. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m, average steepness — 75°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 185 m. 6. Number of pitons: for belaying and for creating M.T.O. average steepness — 75°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 185 m. 6. Number of pitons: for belaying and for creating M.T.O. average steepness — 75°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 185 m 6B pitons: for belaying and for creating M.T.O. final 69, 18 bolted, 3 ice. 7. Number of walking hours — 26 (excluding descent). 8. Number of nights and their characteristics — 2, semi-reclining, in a tent. 9. Surname, name, patronymic of participants and their qualification: Merlis Viktor Petrovich — MSMK, leader

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Ascent to the summit Perednyaya Chotcha via the northern wall buttress, difficulty category 4B, route description and recommendations for climbers.

Fig. 57

1. Ascent to the peak Perednyaya Chotcha (3637 m) via the counterfort of the northern wall — category 4B difficulty (fig. 57)

From Dombay plain by car to the Severny shelter. From the Severny shelter:

  • via a log across the Khokel river
  • further along the trail on the left side of the Chotcha gorge to the snowy couloir under the northern wall of the Chotcha peak Ascent:
  • up the middle of the couloir to its middle part
  • then via the "ram's foreheads" and uncomplicated rocks
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