M82. 40-letiya Tatarskoy ASSR Main Peak from Dolomit South Col
(rock route, cat. 1B, M. Kadyrov, 1961) From the bivouac on the lake shore, ascend the scree slopes past the upper Dolomit Lake towards the Dolomit South Col. Follow a gentle snowy slope closer to the slopes of 40-letiya Tatarskoy ASSR, and then via its mid-section reach the col. 2 hours from the lake.
When the col's slope is snow-free, ascend the col via steep scree and terraces below the slopes of Dolomit South Peak to the snowy slopes, traversing right to reach the col's saddle.
From the col, follow the broken ridge (below and left of its crest), overcoming the "Stoplb" gendarme on the right via a cleft and the "Igla" gendarme on the left via a ledge (with eaves on the right!), to ascend to a shoulder on the ridge and then via ledges to the Main Peak.
From the summit, descend along the 350-meter ridge into a gap to a gendarme. Traverse it on a ledge on the left, then ascend a couloir to the South Peak. 4 hours from the col.
From the summit, descend steep rocky ridge onto a snowy saddle and continue along the ridge trending towards the lakes. After 500 m, turn left and descend into a small rock cirque between this ridge and large grassy-scree ridges trending towards the Kichkinekol Maly Col. From here, follow the scree and grassy slopes to the second Dolomity terrace. 2.5 hours from the South Peak.
40-letiya Tatarskoy ASSR
