Report

On the first ascent

Tortuga Peak (2770 m) – eastern ridge, route 3A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent – Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Moigota valley, 6.1.2

Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants: Tokmachev A.A., Lipchenko A.V. The ascent was made on June 22, 2022. 2022

I. Ascent Passport

6.2 Western Sayan Golova, 1970 m, 5A, via the center of the SW wall Prokofiev D.E. July 10, 2013

Ascent Record

1. Region — Sayan Mountains, Western Sayan
2. Peak — Golova, 1970 m, via the center of the SW wall. 5A.
3. Assumed — 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock
5. Route description: elevation gain — 350 m. route length — 445 m. length of 6th category sections — 100 m. length of 4th category sections — 345 m. average slope — 57°, main part 70°
6. Equipment left on the route: total 0

End of the R0–R1 section. Denis Prokofiev at the R1 station Start of the R1–R2 section Denis Prokofiev on the R2–R3 section Key sections of the route, R3–R5. Approach to the R3 station. Denis Prokofiev approaching the chimney, key section R4–R5, shot from the R4 station

Siberian Federal District and Far Eastern Federal District Championship in Alpinism

Technical and Altitude Class, 2024

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit of Pik Zvezdny 2265 m via the 3rd wall, category 5B, by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai on July 29, 2024 2024

I. ASCENT PASSPORT

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Peak Zvezdny Vostochny 2100 m from Piquantny pass.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B.
5. Height difference 110 m, route length 450 m, average slope 35°.
6. 18 (0) fixed protection elements used on the route.
7. Number of climbing hours — seven.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Group composition:

KOSHURNKOVA PEAK. Via the southern ridge, category 2A, approximate

From the base camp 1.5 hours. The start of the route is a snow couloir with a slope of 45–50°. The snow is dry and loose. Under the snow is a large scree. Simultaneous movement in belay teams - 30 minutes. Ascent to a large gendarme from the invisible side (photo 1) with alternate belay (1 piton) - 20 minutes. Rocks of medium difficulty. There is a control cairn on the gendarme. Descent from the gendarme is simultaneous down easy rocks. Further (photo 2) along a simple ridge to the second gendarme: 5 m straight up, 1 piton. Descent from the gendarme is straightforward onto the ascent of a sharp ridge (40 m) - fixed rope. The steepness of the ascent is 30–35°. After the ascent, the slope becomes more gentle and descends to a subtle col. Movement is simultaneous. Then - ascent to the very summit. Rocks of medium difficulty with good protrusions for simultaneous belay. Steepness is 35°. From the control cairn to the summit is one and a half to two hours. Descent is along the wide eastern ridge. Time to complete the route is 3.5–4 hours. Necessary equipment for a group of 6 people:

Ascent Log

1. Area – Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, p. 6.2
2. Peak – Ptitsa, 2221 m, via the chimney of the South face.
3. Claimed – 2B category of difficulty – first ascent
4. Route nature – rock climbing
5. Height difference – 160 m. Total length – 200 m. Average slope of the entire route – 51°. Average slope of the key section – 60°. Length of sections with IV category of difficulty – 70 m.
6. Equipment used on the route: Stopper – 12 pcs, Cams – 18 pcs.

Route Description

Peak Aristova, named after one of the first Soviet climbers — Oleg Aristov, — is a rocky tooth and towers rising above the lateral ridge, which branches off from the Malo-Almatinsky spur at the location of the Karlytau peak. From there, the ridge stretches east-southeast for about 4 km, dividing the lateral valleys of the glaciers:

• Aristova
• Byrdzhiga. The initial bivouac is on the Aristova glacier plateau. The exit to the route should be no later than four hours, on a slope with a steepness of 55–60°. The ascent goes straight, a little south of a small group of rocks descending from the summit ridge. Deep snow cover:
• Creates convenience for ascending on beaten steps with insurance through an ice axe.
• Is avalanche-prone.

Тraverse of the Jамalak­tau — Di­na­mo­vets peaks, 3B cat. route. The approaches and the route to the Jамalak­tau peak are described in the section on ascents to this peak. From the Jамalak­tau peak, the descent goes down a couloir with snow and talus and leads to a destroyed ridge running in a southerly direction. At the point where the ridge turns southwest-southwest, descend from the last gendarme via an internal corner. Hook insurance required. Further along the destroyed ridge, the gendarmes are bypassed on the right. Behind the ridge is a snowy isthmus, to the left are rock formations resembling towers. Descent via a small couloir to the Tumanny Pass. Stick to the left rocks. The pass elevation is 3700 m. A convenient place to spend the night. From the peak to the pass takes 2.5–3 hours.

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.