Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — combined.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, east of Chiper pass, from the side of Chiper-Azau glacier.
3. Peak 3858, via West Ridge, first ascent.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3A.
5. Height difference of the route 500 m (from Chiper pass).
6. Number of pitons used 5/0, including 2 ice pitons.
7. Number of climbing hours — 9.
8. No overnight stays on the route. Bivouac at "Sandy Hotel" 2700 m.

121. Volnaya Ispaniya via West Ridge (Category III route) From the "Dzhantugan" alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) ascend along the Adylsu gorge road. After 300 m, turn right off the road and descend to cross the Adylsu river on a temporary bridge, above the confluence of the stream from the Kashkatau glacier. From the bridge, the trail goes through a flat forest, then steeply ascends and exits onto the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatau glacier. Further ascent along the trail on the moraine ridge leads to platforms at its end. From here, it's possible to ascend 150-200 m up-left to platforms near the "Rusty" cliffs. The initial bivouac is on the platforms. From the "Dzhantugan" alpine camp, 3-4 hours.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent type: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range.
3. Peak Volnaya Ispaniya, 4200 m, East Face (M.L. Mishilyaev).
4. Difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 800 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 200 m, average steepness 70°.
6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Adyl-Su gorge, section 2.4.32.
2. Volnaya Ispaniya peak, 4271 m, via N wall (V. Kizel, 1952).
3. Difficulty category — 5B.
4. Route character — combined.
5. Route height difference — 500 m; Route length — 800 m; Length of sections:
   • V difficulty category — 55 m
   • VI difficulty category — 40 m

Passport

1. Class of winter ascents.
2. Caucasus, Main Caucasus Range.
3. Peak Volnaya Spain, via North face, 4200 m.
4. Category 5B difficulty.
5. Elevation gain: 400 m, length 600 m. Length of sections: 5th category – 140 m. 6th category – 20 m. Average steepness of the route – 54°, average steepness of the key section – 80°.
6. Hooks left on the route – 2 pcs.

ASCENT REPORT

1. Category: winter ascent.
2. Central Caucasus, Adyl-SU gorge.
3. Peak Volnaya Ispaniya via the North face (Kizel's route).
4. Difficulty category: 5B.
5. Height difference — 580 m, length — 850 m, out of which 5th and 6th difficulty categories — 110 m. Average steepness — 50°.
6. Pitons used: Ice screws: 38 (0) Rock pitons: 5 (0) Existing bolted pitons on the route (6 pieces) were used for belaying.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — winter.
2. Ascent area: North Caucasus.
3. Peak, route: p. Volnaya Ispaniya, 4200 m, V. Kizel's route.
4. Category of difficulty: 5B.
5. Height difference: –580 m, route length — 850 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 120 m. Average steepness of the route — 55°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock – 16/4, chocks – 27/7, ice screws – 27, bolt pitons – 4/3*. Left on the route: bolt piton – 1, chock – 1.
7. Team's working hours: 18 hours and days – 2.
8. Overnight stay: sitting, on ice ledges.

Ascent Log

1. Region of ascent: Central Caucasus.
2. Object of ascent: peak Volnaya Ispaniya.
3. Route: via the north face (Vladimir Kizel, 1952).
4. Difficulty category: 5B.
5. Climbing hours — 22 days — 3
6. Overnights – 2, the first before the rock chimney, the second on the "крыша" (roof).
7. Departure for the route January 4th at 7:00 AM. Reached the summit January 6th at 11:00 AM.

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus
2. Peak Volnaya Ispaniya via North-Eastern Edge
3. 5B
4. Combined
5. Height difference: 600 m (3600–4200) Route length: 825 m. Length of sections with V category of difficulty – 170 m, VI category of difficulty – 15 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 70°
6. Hooks left on the route: 0 Hooks used on the route: 12. Artificial holds used: 13

Fig. 13 Fig. 14

3. Ascent to the Herzog peak via the North-Eastern ridge — for the difficulty category (Fig. 13 and 14)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to Turiy Lake — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac up the moraine, then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is exposed, belay!) to the rocky gate between the rocks of the northern edge of Herzog and the rocks under the eastern slope of Jalovchat. Up the steep snow-ice slope: