Passport

1. Altitude class
2. Central Pamir, Peter the First and Academy of Sciences ranges.
3. Traverse of Peak Xoxlova – Peak Kommunizma via the right NE buttress from the Balthazar Glacier.
4. First ascent, approximately 6A cat. dif.
5. Elevation gain: 2895 m, length of the main part 1520 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. dif.: 315 m. Average steepness of the main route: 57°, including 160 m of 6 cat. dif.
6. Pitons driven: Rock — 134, chocks — 53, ice screws — 51, bolt pitons — 0
7. Team's total climbing hours: 46 hours and 4 days.
8. Overnight camps: 1st — a platform built from stones on a rock shelf, 2nd — a platform carved in a snowy ridge, 3rd — a snow depression on a plateau. All overnight camps were lying-down bivouacs.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing class — high-altitude.
2. Climbing area — North-Western Pamir.
3. Climbing route to the summit of Peak Kommunizma (7495 m above sea level) via the south-western wall.
4. Climbing characteristics: height difference — 2800 m; average steepness — 70°; length of complex section (90°) — 1540 m. Number of pitons: rock — 501; ice — 15; bolted — 32.
5. Number of travel hours — 121. Number of overnight stays — 23, half of them sitting.
6. Team of the Rostov Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports.
7. Team members:

Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Ukrainian SSR ![img-0.jpeg]({"width":555,"height":552,"format": "Jpeg","uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/r9xyHAvOvdkcYFgEnUgGJTGQdFabvpu5/img-0.jpeg","id":64763611}) Report on the ascent of Peak Kommunizma via the south face ![img-1.jpeg]({"width":682,"height":670,"format": "Jpeg","uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/2u7knCK5FD8RbdRRywsEXZxaICkmFBhA/img-1.jpeg","id":64763612}) Kiev, 1973

I. Sports Characteristic of the Route

The object of the ascent, Peak Kommunizma, is located at the junction of the Petra Pervogo and Akademii Nauk ranges in the Central Pamir. After E. M. Abalakov's first ascent of Peak Kommunizma in 1933, a large number of new routes were laid to its summit. The area around Peak Kommunizma is frequently visited by mountaineering expeditions and is fairly well-known both geographically and in terms of mountaineering. (See "Pobezhdennye vershiny" 1968–1969.) Following the brilliant reconnaissance by V. Bozhuukov and A. Belopukhov in 1965, and the successful ascents by the groups led by E. Myslovsky and V. Onishchenko, the central part of the south face of Peak Kommunizma became one of the main challenging routes for Soviet mountaineers. Our team's acquaintance with Peak Kommunizma began in 1967 when we made the first ascent of its northeast ridge, earning the title of USSR champions. In 1972, we attempted to ascend via the center of the south face. Due to harsh weather conditions and time constraints, we were forced to descend, having reached an altitude of 6300–6400 m.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing class — high-altitude
2. Climbing area, ridge — Central Pamir, Akademiya Nauk ridge
3. Peak, its height, climbing route — Peak Kommunizma 7495 m via the southern wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B
5. Route characteristics:
   1. height difference — 2800 m
   2. length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 1200 m
   3. average steepness of the lower part — 55° average steepness of the wall section — 85°

Route Description: Traversing the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges on the Segment from Pik Parashyutistov to Pik Akhmad Donish

Group II of the "Burevestnik" Complex Expedition. Pamir, August 1968.

Description

of traversing the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges on the segment including Pik Parashyutistov – Pamiro Firnovo Plateau – Pik Kommunizma – Pik 6701 m – Pik Izvestiya – Pik K. Tsetkin – Pik A. Donisha.

I. Brief Geographical Characteristics of the Area

The Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges are located in the Northwestern Pamir. Their junction, Pik Kommunizma, is the highest peak in the USSR. The ridges, the first stretching in a latitudinal direction and the second in a meridional direction, are characterized by powerful glaciation and high peaks in their central parts adjacent to Pik Kommunizma. Studying the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges, which play a significant role in shaping the climatic conditions of the Pamir and surrounding areas, as well as in the water balance of the Amu-Darya, is of great interest.

Peak Korzhenevskoi via NE ridge Leader: Sivtsov B. 1968 Received on October 3 Date of mailing from Donetsk by post September 28, 1968

USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION CS SDSO "Burevestnik"

Report

on the first ascent of the southern ridge of Peak E. Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) by the CS SDSO "Burevestnik" team Team Captain /V. Tsetlin/ Coach /V. Smit/ Moscow, 1966 Fig. 2. Scheme of ascent to Peak E. Korzhenevskaya. The scheme indicates the sections shown on the profile map.

St. Petersburg Climbing Championship 2018 High-Altitude Class

Report on the Ascent to the Summit of Peak Korzhenevskaya via the South Ridge (Tsetlin, 1966) 5A Category of Difficulty

Team Coach: S.A. Semiletkin Team Leader: F.M. Zaliev Team Members:

• A.S. Dusheiko
• S.V. Livandev, St. Petersburg 2018

Ascent Passport

• Region: PAMIR Area: Academy of Sciences Range (western side of Fedchenko Glacier from Yazglemsky Pass in the south to Muksu River in the north with all lateral spurs) Peak Name: Peak Korzhenevskaya, 7105 m

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - high-altitude 2. Ascent area - Central Pamir, Akademiya Nauk Range 3. Peak, its height, ascent route - Peak E. Korzhenevskoi, 7105 m, east face 4. Proposed difficulty category - highest 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain - 2600 m, average slope - 55°, length of sections with 5th difficulty category - 525 m. 6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating intermediate anchors (I.T.O.) rock 21, 8 ice 30, 2

Report

on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky

Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief: