1. Ascent via the northern slope.
2. Ascent from the southwest.
3. Traverse of the Dynamo­vets — Dzhamalaktau peaks. Ascent via the northern slope, Category 1B route. The Dynamo­vets peak is located in the New spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau in the ridge, which is a watershed between the rivers Sredniy Talgar and Bolshoy Klyuch. The path to the summit:

• From the Tal­gar al­pin­ist camp
• Up the trail through the gorge
• To the "Zelyo­naya po­lya­na" (Green Glade) bivouac site.

72.55

Zharsay, Southeast Ridge, Cat. 1B

The summit "Zharsay" is located in the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau and is situated southeast of the "Metallurg" peak. The height of the "Zharsay" summit is 4650 m. Until 1957, there were no ascents to the "Zharsay" summit. The first complete traverse of the "Zharsay" massif was made by a group of instructors from the "Talgar" alpine camp of the "Metallurg" sports society from August 13 to 18. The group consisted of:

• Kelberg A.V. - leader;
• Sorokin S.V.;
• Porokhnya Yu.I.;
• Chernoshchechkina Z.V. - participants. The path to the foot of the "Zharsay" summit from the "Talgar" alpine camp goes along a trail leading to the training rocks to the east towards the "Ozerny" glacier. The "Ozerny" glacier should be crossed immediately above the training rocks to reach its right (orographic) bank. Along the right part of the "Ozerny" glacier, one needs to proceed southeast to the foot of the "Taverentava" pass. Then, ascend to the pass via a wide couloir covered with medium scree and snow. The descent from the pass is made towards the "Metallurg" glacier. The snow-ice slope is initially traversed to the left, and then to the right, until reaching the rocky outcrops, from which one can descend to the lateral moraines of the glacier. The "Metallurg" glacier cirque is crossed in an easterly direction, and via firn, and then medium rocks, we reach the saddle of the northeast ridge of the "Metallurg" summit. The descent from the saddle towards the "Zharsay" glacier goes along a steep ice slope. Moving along the right part of the glacier, one needs to go around the lateral ridge.

Aktyuz Pass. Descend from the pass about thirty meters down the icy slope to the bergschrund (be careful!). Piton insurance. Go 150 m along the lower edge of the bergschrund, then down and right across snowy and sometimes icy slopes up to 40° to complete the descent onto Kroshka Glacier. Traverse Kroshka Glacier: go along the very middle in the upper part, and on the right side in the tongue area. Cross the moraine to a trail leading down the Orta Talgar valley.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Maximum 6 participants.
2. Initial bivouac on Kopor Glacier.
3. Depart from initial bivouac no later than 5 am.
4. Equipment for a 4-person group: a) 2 × 40 m main ropes; b) 1 × 40 m auxiliary rope; c) 5 slings; d) 10 rock pitons; e) 6 ice pitons; f) 2 hammers; g) 6 carabiners. Fig. 43a

Traverse of Issyktent-Chokhu — White Peak — Akgul peaks, 4A cat. difficulty. The peaks of Issyktent-Chokhu, White Peak, and Akgul are located in a ridge branching off to the southeast from the main ridge of Trans-Ili Alatau, known as Issyk-Ten-Chokhu, which separates the Bogatyri and Korzhenevsky glaciers. This ridge borders the Korzhenevsky glacier from the southeast. From the Talgar alpine camp, one reaches the cirque of this glacier via the Suroviy pass and sets up the first bivouac under the peak of GUVVO. The peak of Issyktent-Chokhu is situated between the peaks of Vsevobuch and White Peak. Crossing the glacier, one moves towards the peak (caution: crevasses are present!). The ascent to the ridge is closer to the peak of Vsevobuch and then to the saddle between Vsevobuch and Issyktent-Chokhu peaks. Crampons and alternating belay are required. Crevasses are present. The journey from the bivouac to the ridge takes 2.5–3 hours. Turn right. Ascent to the ridge, crowned with gendarmes. This is the 1st landmark. Further, the route follows rocks of medium difficulty, heavily destroyed (!). It is more convenient to go on the left. Then comes a chain of gendarmes with small drops and a general descent to the "window". Belay is alternating everywhere. Beyond the "window":

• 1st gendarme (40 m), complex rocks
• if the snow condition allows, it is better to bypass the "window" on the left

Karlytau 1B cat. via Komosomolsky Pass

Route Description.

The snow-ice dome of Karlytau peak is located in the Maloalmatinsky spur, somewhat south of the majestic pyramid of Peak Komosomola. Its snow-white cap is clearly visible from Almaty. Karlytau is situated between the passes:

• Komosomolsky (to the north)
• Manshuk Mametova (to the south). To the west, a snowy ridge connects it to the peak Geroev Panfilovtsev. To the east, towards the Left Talgar gorge, a ridge stretches from the peak, crowned by

Traverse of the Kishkine-Tau and Suleiman-Stalsky peaks from the Jamboul glacier to the Severtsev glacier, 3B category of difficulty (fig. 13). From the bivouac on the Shokalsky glacier descend to the glacier tongue. Ascend along the tongue to the middle moraine (black), and along it - to its end. Then:

• Descent to the right,
• Then move along the middle of the glacier, keeping direction to the Kishkine-Tau peak. After some time, you will reach a strip of black stones, running from north to south. Follow along the stones. To the right are red taluses descending from the slab-like ridge running from the Jamboul peak. Do not approach this ridge: there are large crevasses! To the left is the end of the glacier descending from behind the Chokon Valikhonov peak.

Route Description

The initial bivouac is on the glacier on the south side of the southwest ridge in a safe location. The exit to the ridge is via a steep scree slope (takes no more than 30 minutes). The first жандарм (rock tower) on the route is bypassed on the left via slabs and a snow patch. Then, ascent is made up a steep snow and ice slope for 10–15 m (protection via protrusions). Beyond this section, there is an exit to the edge via rocks of medium difficulty, transitioning to difficult rocks. It is convenient to bypass them on the right, descending a few meters down, and crossing the scree, exit onto easy rocks of the ridge and approach the second жандарм via rocks of medium difficulty, sticking to the left side (protection via protrusions). The second жандарм, 7–8 m high, is overcome head-on with piton protection. It has a convenient platform for organizing shoulder belays. Descent from the жандарм does not present technical difficulties. The path to the third жандарм is as follows:

• a steep snow patch, dropping off towards the northwest wall of the summit (careful protection via ice axe);
• then — stick to the right rocks, which will make it possible to organize protection via protrusions in some places. The third жандарм is bypassed on the right via a ledge. Without reaching the couloir, ascend upwards between the passed жандарм and the ridge (50–60 m), leading to slabs (careful protection).

Peak Konstitutsii Kazakhstana (4709 m)

Traverse from northwest to southeast, route 4A cat. difficulty (Fig. 1). The summit named Konstitutsii Kazakhstana is located in the main ridge of Zailiysky Alatau, in the immediate vicinity of the northward spur that separates the Dmitrieva and Konstitutsii glaciers and is also named Konstitutsii. The traverse route begins from the initial bivouac on the right-bank moraine of the Konstitutsii glacier. From the bivouac, cross the glacier (cautiously: crevasses!) towards the northwest ridge of Peak Konstitutsii. When ascending the ridge, follow the western edge as the slope is quite steep and avalanche-prone (45°). There are areas with flow ice. In the middle part of the edge, bypass a large bergschrund with step-cutting and thorough belaying. The steepness here is 60–65°. Further, the edge rises steeply. At the end of the season, it becomes entirely icy. Overcoming the edge requires 7–8 ice screws for belaying. The exit to the ridge is uncomplicated. On the first gendarme, there's a control cairn. The total length of the ridge is about three kilometers, with steepness in some areas reaching 50–60°. To the south, there are overhanging cornices. The ridge has many small drops and two dips. Descend into the first dip, after passing the second gendarme on the left side, via the slabs. The ascent from the dip is difficult and requires thorough belaying. Initially, it goes along a snowy slope with a steepness of up to 55°, then the slope becomes icy, with a steepness of up to 60°. The ascent length is 100–120 m. Further, the ridge becomes somewhat gentler, very narrow, with steep slopes on both sides. This section of the ridge should be traversed very cautiously, walking along the ridge crest for 150–170 m. Some sections are traversed in a "penguin-like" manner.

1. Ascent from Kopr glacier via the southern ridge.
2. Ascent from the North-West. Ascent from the Kopr glacier via the southern ridge, route category 3B (fig. 45). The Kopr peak is located in the main ridge of Trans-Ili Alatau, between the Metallurg peak and the Talgar massif, to the North-East of the latter. The path to the peak from the Talgar mountaineering camp:

• Up the Middle Talgar gorge along the trail.
• From the signpost turn left towards the Kopr glacier.
• Then go along the grassy slopes, then along the ancient moraines: first along the terminal ones, then along the right (orographic) lateral ones.
• The trail is clearly visible.
• Overnight stay at Rakhimov bivouac.

109. Sullukol via the East Ridge of the East shoulder (combined route, G.­Kobidze, cat.4B, fig. 5, 12). The path from the Djailyk alpine camp (group of 4–6 people) or from Tyrnyauz to the initial bivouac at the sites near the Severny Sullukol glacier waterfall is described in route 106. Leave the bivouac for the Severny Sullukol glacier (departure at 2–3 am due to possible rockfall in the lower part of the route) and proceed to the icefall. Traverse the icefall to the left, and above it, reach a small upper ice-and-snow plateau of the glacier. Traverse the plateau, then ascend a gentle 500-meter ice-and-snow slope (closed crevasses) upwards-left to the ice-and-snow pad of the East Ridge of