1. Ascent via the northern slope.
  2. Ascent from the southwest.
  3. Traverse of the Dynamo­vets — Dzhamalaktau peaks.

Ascent via the northern slope, Category 1B route.

The Dynamo­vets peak is located in the New spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau in the ridge, which is a watershed between the rivers Sredniy Talgar and Bolshoy Klyuch. The path to the summit:

  • From the Tal­gar al­pin­ist camp
  • Up the trail through the gorge
  • To the "Zelyo­naya po­lya­na" (Green Glade) bivouac site.

From the overnight stay at Zelyo­naya po­lya­na (Green Glade), cross the Sredniy Talgar river and ascend the grassy slope to the snout of a small glacier, which gives rise to a stream flowing down to Zelyo­naya po­lya­na as a waterfall. There is a lake near the glacier tongue, which the path passes by.

Continue up the snowy couloir to the rocks on the right-hand side. Follow them to reach the cornice capping the ridge. Move along the cornice southwards. After 100–150 m, cross the Bergschrund and ascend to the northern ridge of the summit.

Soon, another crevasse is overcome on the way, followed by an exit onto a steep snow slope. Move up the slope southwestwards to the very summit of Dynamo­vets.

Descend via the same route as the ascent.

The ascent from the initial bivouac takes 7–8 hours.

Rec­om­men­da­tions for climbers

  1. The number of participants is not limited.
  2. Initial bivouac at Zelyo­naya po­lya­na (Green Glade).
  3. Departure from the bivouac at 5:00 AM.
  4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) 2 × 30 m main rope; b) 2 ice axes; c) 2 carabiners; d) 2 hammers img-0.jpeg

Fig. 18

Sources

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