- Sullukol via the East Ridge of the East shoulder (combined route, G.Kobidze, cat.4B, fig. 5, 12). The path from the Djailyk alpine camp (group of 4–6 people) or from Tyrnyauz to the initial bivouac at the sites near the Severny Sullukol glacier waterfall is described in route 106. Leave the bivouac for the Severny Sullukol glacier (departure at 2–3 am due to possible rockfall in the lower part of the route) and proceed to the icefall. Traverse the icefall to the left, and above it, reach a small upper ice-and-snow plateau of the glacier. Traverse the plateau, then ascend a gentle 500-meter ice-and-snow slope (closed crevasses) upwards-left to the ice-and-snow pad of the East Ridge of the East shoulder of Sullukol peak.
From the pad, follow the 120-meter steep ice-and-snow East Ridge to its lower rocks. From here, ascend 120 m:
- first, leftwards across steep rocks with numerous ledges (“live” rocks)
- then, rightwards across simple and moderately difficult, ruined rocks in an indistinctly defined couloir onto the East Ridge.
Ascend simple and moderately difficult rocks of the East Ridge to below a slab. Traverse the wet, icy slab above average difficulty —