Traverse of Issyktent-Chokhu — White Peak — Akgul peaks, 4A cat. difficulty.

The peaks of Issyktent-Chokhu, White Peak, and Akgul are located in a ridge branching off to the southeast from the main ridge of Trans-Ili Alatau, known as Issyk-Ten-Chokhu, which separates the Bogatyri and Korzhenevsky glaciers. This ridge borders the Korzhenevsky glacier from the southeast.

From the Talgar alpine camp, one reaches the cirque of this glacier via the Suroviy pass and sets up the first bivouac under the peak of GUVVO.

The peak of Issyktent-Chokhu is situated between the peaks of Vsevobuch and White Peak. Crossing the glacier, one moves towards the peak (caution: crevasses are present!). The ascent to the ridge is closer to the peak of Vsevobuch and then to the saddle between Vsevobuch and Issyktent-Chokhu peaks. Crampons and alternating belay are required. Crevasses are present. The journey from the bivouac to the ridge takes 2.5–3 hours.

Turn right. Ascent to the ridge, crowned with gendarmes. This is the 1st landmark.

Further, the route follows rocks of medium difficulty, heavily destroyed (!). It is more convenient to go on the left.

Then comes a chain of gendarmes with small drops and a general descent to the "window". Belay is alternating everywhere.

Beyond the "window":

• 1st gendarme (40 m), complex rocks
• if the snow condition allows, it is better to bypass the "window" on the left
• 3–4 rock pitons are required to overcome the gendarme
• the path goes almost vertically, through a vertical crevice.

The 2nd gendarme is less complex (1 piton). Beyond it lies a stepped ice-snow ridge. Go on the left. Step cutting and thorough belay are required. After 30 m, rocks follow again, and one reaches a small platform. Then go on the right. A sharp gendarme (3–4 m) is bypassed on the left, and then the route goes back to the left. A 120 m section of firn follows, then a destroyed gendarme, a sharp turn left, and along the snowy ridge, one approaches the last gendarme. A bergschrund is present before it. Beyond the crevasse, ascent follows on the snow to the left of the gendarme, and then rocks again. From them to the peak is 300 m. This segment can be traversed in two ways:

• directly along the ice slope (60°)
• more conveniently — along destroyed rocks of medium difficulty, up to 100 m long.

From the rocks, one reaches a platform 30 m from the summit ridge. The ridge is almost horizontal, snowy-icy. Cornices are present (caution!). Thorough belay is required. The summit ridge runs from west to east between two...