Route Description
The initial bivouac is on the glacier on the south side of the southwest ridge in a safe location. The exit to the ridge is via a steep scree slope (takes no more than 30 minutes).
The first жандарм (rock tower) on the route is bypassed on the left via slabs and a snow patch. Then, ascent is made up a steep snow and ice slope for 10–15 m (protection via protrusions).
Beyond this section, there is an exit to the edge via rocks of medium difficulty, transitioning to difficult rocks. It is convenient to bypass them on the right, descending a few meters down, and crossing the scree, exit onto easy rocks of the ridge and approach the second жандарм via rocks of medium difficulty, sticking to the left side (protection via protrusions).
The second жандарм, 7–8 m high, is overcome head-on with piton protection. It has a convenient platform for organizing shoulder belays. Descent from the жандарм does not present technical difficulties.
The path to the third жандарм is as follows:
- a steep snow patch, dropping off towards the northwest wall of the summit (careful protection via ice axe);
- then — stick to the right rocks, which will make it possible to organize protection via protrusions in some places.
The third жандарм is bypassed on the right via a ledge. Without reaching the couloir, ascend upwards between the passed жандарм and the ridge (50–60 m), leading to slabs (careful protection).
Further ascent continues along the ridge via rocks of medium difficulty, then along a narrow snow ridge for 30–40 m (careful protection, be careful!).
The final section before the summit:
- a rocky ridge (2025 m).
Descent is via route 2А category of difficulty to Комсомольский перевал (Comsomolsky pass). The ascent takes 7–8 hours.
Recommendations
- Number of participants — 8–10 people.
- Initial bivouac on the Богдановича (Bogdanovich) glacier.
- Departure from the bivouac at 6:00.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people:
- main rope 2 × 30 m
- rock pitons — 5–6 pieces
From the Mountain.kz website