Traverse of the Kishkine-Tau and Suleiman-Stalsky peaks from the Jamboul glacier to the Severtsev glacier, 3B category of difficulty (fig. 13).

From the bivouac on the Shokalsky glacier descend to the glacier tongue. Ascend along the tongue to the middle moraine (black), and along it - to its end. Then:

  • Descent to the right,
  • Then move along the middle of the glacier, keeping direction to the Kishkine-Tau peak.

After some time, you will reach a strip of black stones, running from north to south. Follow along the stones. To the right are red taluses descending from the slab-like ridge running from the Jamboul peak. Do not approach this ridge: there are large crevasses! To the left is the end of the glacier descending from behind the Chokon Valikhonov peak.

Further along the very middle of the glacier to the place from where a double-horned gendarm is visible on the slab-like ridge. Here, rope up: there are many crevasses! In 2-3 hours after leaving the bivouac, three grey taluses with rocky outcrops are reached. Traverse to the right and upwards towards the taluses. The slope is icy, up to 20°. Follow along the solid black rocks. Where the couloir narrows, switch to the red rocks. The route is easier, but there are many "live" stones. Upon exiting the couloir - a corniche. Step cutting is required. To reach the corniche, use a handrail (1 ice axe piton).

The height of the corniche is 5 m. After 50-60 m - 1st control cairn. From the cairn, a snowy slope follows with gradually increasing steepness up to 40°. Belay with an ice axe.

Sources

Comments

Sign in to leave a comment