Ascent Log

1. Ascent class — high-altitude and technical.
2. Ascent area — Matcha node, Turkestan Ridge.
3. Summit — peak Mushketova, height — 5300 m, ascent route via the center of the northwest wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1900 m; b) length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 930 m; c) average steepness (sections 1–32) — 73°, (sections 32–46) — 50°.
6. Number of pitons hammered for protection:

14 5.4.2.5. All-Union Championship of the Trade Unions DFSO on Alpinism 1988 Class of technical ascents

Report

Report on the ascent of Peak Ak-su North 5217 m via the north wall by the team of instructors of AUSB “Alay” Team Leader
Team Coach

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak gorge.
3. Peak, route: p. AkSu N. 5217 m, via the center of the N. face through the "nose" (P. Shabalin's route).
4. Complexity category — 6B, second ascent.
5. Height difference: — 1467 m. Route length — 1940 m, length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 255 m, length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 1350 m. Average steepness:

• main section of the route — 75.5°;
• entire route — 68°.

Ascent Log

1. Technical category.
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-su valley.
3. Peak Aktyubek (5125 m) via the right counterfort of the North face.
4. Proposed category 5A, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 1325 m. Total length: 2435 m, sections of category 5 — 200 m. Slope: overall on the route — 38°, on the wall section — 50°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 25, ice — 11. Chocks placed — 34.
7. Number of travel days — 3, hours — 24.
8. Number of bivouacs on the route — 2 (both convenient, in a tent).

Route Description by Sections

R0–R1. Start moving left and below the summit scree along the wall, then along the corner. Reach the flattening. 45 m IV R1–R2. Move along the gentle rocks under the overhang. It provides protection from falling rocks. 40 m III R2–R3. Move right towards the stream (rocks are falling along the stream). Left of the stream, climb the wall to reach the gentle rocks. 45 m IV R3–R4. Approach the wall. Climb through the crack using artificial aids (IT) with underclimbs. 20 m II, 20 m VIA1 R4–R5. Climb right through the crack, followed by a difficult traverse (10 m). Reach the gentle, smooth rocks left of the stream and climb up. Set up a station at the exit to simple rocks. 15 m VIA2–A3, 35 m IV R5–R6. Climb up, then through the corner, to reach the gentle rocks. Continue climbing up. 15 m IV, 30 m II R6–R7. Climb right and up to the scree, then along the scree right and up to the rocky ridge. 100 m I R7–R8. Climb along the ridge left and up to the base of the gentle, smooth slab. 80 m I–III R8–R9. Climb the slab left and up, then straight up. Reach the internal corner. 40 m V+ A1

ASCENT PASSPORT. I. Rock class. 2. Altai, Mensu gorge. 3. Belukha Eastern, via the pillows of the south-eastern slope. 4. Proposed — Category III, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 700 m, length: 1200 m, average steepness: 40 °. 6. Movement hours — 8 hours. 7. Overnight stays: 2 on approach, on the route — none. 8. Leader — Kuznetsova Tatiana Yurievna — II sports category. Participants:

ALPINIAD

of the Tomsk Regional Council of the All-Union Student Sports Society "Burevestnik"

Gorny Altai

Ak-kem valley July 10 - August 20 1963 Ascent to Vostochnaya Belukha from the cirque of Men-su glacier

Report

on the ascent to Vostochnaya Belukha via the south-eastern ridge (route category 3B) On July 26, 1963, a group of climbers, participants of the Alpinad of the Tomsk Regional Council of the All-Union Student Sports Society "Burevestnik", consisting of:

8. Kara — a lesson

Report

on the first ascent route to the summit 3548 m a.s.l. It is proposed to be named after Tomsk climber Krylov Stanislav. Altai Republic, Ust-Koksinsky district, Katunsky ridge via the glacier from the north 2B cat. difficulty (approximately) (ice climbing) by the team of Tomsk Alpine Federation March 20, 2022 Participants: Temerev I.M. Khasanov N.A.

76. Aylama via the West Ridge (combined route, I. Marra, category 4B difficulty, fig. 5, 15, 17). From the upper plateau of Koruldashi Glacier (m. 72), approach the wide snowy southern slope of the saddle between Aylama Malaya peak and the Big Sharp Gendarme of Aylama's West Ridge. From the plateau, cross the bergschrund on the left side of the steep wide snowy slope, 400–500 m up, to the right of the rocks of the East Ridge of Aylama Malaya peak. Having overcome the second bergschrund or bypassed it on the left via the rocks, 600–700 m up and to the right, towards the couloir on the left side of the Big Gendarme. Follow the winding couloir, known as the "Zmeika" (Snake) couloir, 150–200 m up, to