ALPINIAD
of the Tomsk Regional Council of the All-Union Student Sports Society "Burevestnik"
Gorny Altai
Ak-kem valley July 10 - August 20 1963
Ascent to Vostochnaya Belukha from the cirque of Men-su glacier
Report
on the ascent to Vostochnaya Belukha via the south-eastern ridge (route category 3B)
On July 26, 1963, a group of climbers, participants of the Alpinad of the Tomsk Regional Council of the All-Union Student Sports Society "Burevestnik", consisting of:
- Khizhnyak V.G. - leader
- Ivanov A.A. - participant
- Skryabin G.M. - participant
- Spiridonov L. - participant
- Lobanov S. - participant
- Denisov V. - participant
- Gusev B. - participant
- Molodezhnikov A. - participant
- Zekov V. - participant
left the base camp of the Alpinad, located on the moraine to the right (orographically) of the upper Ak-kem lake, to organize a permanent intermediate camp in the cirque of Men-su glacier (see Appendix 1).
From the base camp, the group's path passed along the Ak-kem river, upstream, to the tongue of the glacier (50 minutes walking). At the tongue of the glacier, the group turned left (in the direction of travel) onto the moraine and, having ascended to the level of the glacier, crossed onto the ice. Further, the group's path passed through the middle part of the glacier to the icefall (2.5 hours walking from the base camp). The glacier flow before the icefall (in the direction of travel) is even. There are few crevasses; the glacier is completely open; there are many streams; the ice is pockmarked. The group moved without crampons and without being roped together. The icefall is heavily broken. It is easily overcome on its left side (in the direction of travel) without crampons, but roped together. The time spent overcoming the icefall is 30-40 minutes. Having overcome the icefall, the group approached the ice pass between Delone Peak and Tomsk Students' Peak in 1.5 hours, and stopped for the night here - in the cirque of Ak-kem glacier. The total time spent, counting from the base camp, is 4-5 hours walking.
The pass from the north side is an ice slope with an average steepness of 45-50° and a length of 300-350 m (see Appendix P-IV). In the lower part of the pass, there is a bergschrund (1) and a small area of firn. Further, there is an ice slope. From the upper section of rocks (3), a 200-meter rope was hung, the lower end of which was at the lower edge of the rocks (2). Above the rocks (3), there is a small (80-100 m) ascent, mainly firn, which leads to the pass point (4). Beyond the pass, there is a steep (55-60°) 15-meter snow slope, which then becomes gentler (up to 30°) and leads to a large snow plateau between the ridge of Tomsk Students' Peak and the eastern slopes of Delone Peak - the cirque of the northern tributary of Men-su glacier.
The group, having spent the night under the pass on Ak-kem glacier, overcame the pass, moving in crampons with insurance on the rope hung on the pass, and descended into the cirque of the tributary of Men-su glacier (5). Further, the group's path passed along the snow plateau of the cirque, and then along the icefall (6) (see Appendix IV). The icefall of the tributary is quite heavily broken. Part of the icefall is covered with snow. Individual sections, through which the group's path passed, have a steepness of up to 60°. Several crevasses are overcome on snow bridges with careful insurance. Having overcome the icefall, the group entered the cirque of Men-su glacier and, in its central, fairly even and snow-covered part, set up an intermediate Alpinad camp.
The time spent by the group on overcoming the pass and the tributary of Men-su glacier (with the icefall) was 2.5-3 hours.
Description of the ascent route to Vostochnaya Belukha via the south-eastern ridge
On July 30, 1963, participants in two groups made an ascent to Vostochnaya Belukha via the south-eastern ridge from the intermediate Alpinad camp located in the cirque of Men-su glacier.
Composition of the 1st group:
- Khizhnyak V.G. - leader
- Ivanov A.I. - participant
- Lobanov S. - participant
- Denisov V. - participant
Composition of the 2nd group:
- Skryabin G.M. - leader
- Spiridonov L. - participant
- Gusev B. - participant
- Molodezhnikov A. - participant
- Zekov V. - participant
The first group left the camp at 7:00 and headed southwest to the saddle (9) between Berelsky Peak (10) and the beginning of the ridge (11) on Vostochnaya Belukha (see Appendix V).
The first section of the path is a fairly even snow plateau (7), followed by a gentle (30°) ascent, cut by crevasses, to the saddle (1 hour walking). Then, putting on crampons, the group ascended a steep (30-40°) but short (30-50 m) section of snow slope onto the ridge (12) (see Appendices VI-VIII). Further, the entire path of the group went, without removing crampons, along this ridge to the summit.
The left slopes of the ridge (20) are continuous firn-ice fields, with a steepness of 40-45° in the upper part and up to 70° in the middle and lower parts. Snow does not stay on these slopes. The right slopes of the first half of the ridge (21) are continuous snow cornices, cut by crevasses; snow cornices of various sizes (up to 10-15 m) overhang these slopes; the steepness of the slopes is 70-80°.
The right slopes of the second half of the ridge (22) are rocky slopes of the same steepness, with ice couloirs and platforms between sections of rocks.
The group's path passed along the very central part of the ridge at the base of the cornices. The rope teams moved with alternating insurance through the ice axe. Movement on some sections of the ridge was carried out in 3 beats.
2 hours after ascending onto the ridge, the group overcame 4 clearly defined firn-ice ascents (13-16); the firn at the base of the cornices on the ridge is firm, dry, and crampons hold well, but due to the great steepness of the slope, it is necessary to move with careful insurance through the ice axe.
Having overcome the 4th ascent (16), the group approached the fifth firn ascent (17), 70-100 m long and with a steepness of not less than 45°, leading under the rocks of the pre-summit (19).
The entire fifth ascent is traversed in 3 beats on the front teeth of crampons with self-insurance with the pick of the ice axe and alternating insurance through the ice axe in each rope team, in places - with the cutting of steps.
In the case of poor firn conditions, as well as if the ankle joints of the ascent participants are tired from continuous load, it is necessary to organize hook insurance. The ice under the layer of firn is firm, and it is possible to reliably hammer in ice hooks. After ascending onto the rocks (18), both rope teams of the group moved "shuttle-style": alternately, each rope team moved forward and pulled the rope for the 2nd rope team. Reliable insurance and attachment of the rope were carried out on rock outcrops.
The characteristics of the rocks are as follows: Rocks of average difficulty, quite broken, stepped. The inclination of the steps is unfavorable; there are many "live" stones and fragments, but also many footholds. Many slabs and steps are covered with ice; between sections of rocks, there are ice platforms and couloirs. The rocks are overcome by simple climbing.
The length of the rocky section is 130-150 m; the steepness is 45-50°. The 5th firn ascent and rocks are traversed in 1-1.5 hours and lead to the pre-summit (19).
After the rocky ascent of the pre-summit, there is a small snow-firn descent with rocky outcrops - a depression in the ridge (23). After the depression, there is again a 150-meter snow-firn ascent with a steepness of 45-50° (24). The ascent is overcome in crampons with alternating insurance through the ice axe. The remaining sections of the ascent are traversed on the front teeth of crampons in three beats with self-insurance with the pick of the ice axe (in addition to alternating insurance through the ice axe). Crevasses crossing the slope (2) are easily overcome. The snow-firn ascent leads to its continuation - a long 400-450-meter rocky ascent, with an average steepness of 45-50° (25). Rocks of average difficulty, broken, with an unfavorable inclination of the steps, with a large number of fragments and "live" stones. Stones in many places are covered with a crust of ice and icicles protruding in different directions - the result of the wind blowing here in various directions. Between sections of rocks, there is ice.
The rocks are overcome by simple climbing with insurance through outcrops. The rope teams moved, as on the pre-summit, "shuttle-style", and spent 3 hours on overcoming the snow-firn ascent (24) and rocks (25). Having overcome the rocky ascent, the group reached a small snow plateau (26), bounded on the right by snow cornices, dropping into the cirque of Men-su glacier, and on the left - by steep (up to 50°) snow slopes, cut by crevasses. From the snow plateau, a new snow ascent begins, 60-80 m long and with a steepness of up to 45° (27). The snow on the slope of the ascent is loose, deep. The steps turn out to be unstable, although deep - up to 15-20 cm. The ascent is avalanche-prone.
The group spent 40 minutes on overcoming the ascent and reached a small platform under the cornice (28 and 29). The cornice in this place is a long ice overhanging wall with a steepness of 80-90° and a height of 7-10 m.
To the left and right, the cornice becomes overhanging and higher - up to 15 m. Under the cornice, along its entire length, there is a crevasse (30). The cornice is overcome in crampons with the cutting of steps. The first climber ascending must place ice axes as support, as well as shoulder support. The remaining participants ascend with the help of a rope (in a sports style), fixed on the cornice (see Appendix IX).
After ascending onto the cornice, 200-250 m of a fairly even and wide (31) snow ridge remains to the summit, bounded on the left by rocks, dropping into the saddle between Vostochnaya and Zapadnaya Belukha, and on the right - by snow cornices, overhanging the cirque of Men-su glacier.
The group reached the summit (32) 9 hours after leaving the intermediate camp.
Having taken the note of the previous group and left their own note in the cairn (see Appendices X and XI), the group began their descent at 16:30.
The descent along the ascent route took 5 hours. In total, the group spent 14 hours on the ascent.
The weather did not favor the climbers. During the entire ascent, a sharp wind blew, and dry snow fell; visibility almost always did not exceed 20-30 m. Often, it was necessary to stop and wait for momentary breaks in the continuous veil of snow and clouds to chart the further path.
The ascent was successful. The route of the ascent to Vostochnaya Belukha via the south-eastern ridge from the cirque of Men-su glacier is assessed as category 3B.
Group leader:
October 23, 1963
