Khmelnitskogo Peak (4150 m)

Traversing from Southwest to Northeast — Category 2A difficulty

The summit of Khmelnitskogo Peak is located in the middle part of the ridge that divides the valleys of Sredniy and Leviy Aksay. This ridge stretches 8 km northward from the main watershed ridge of Trans-Ili Alatau. The ridge has multi-meter walls on its western and eastern sides and a steep slope to the north. The approach begins from the initial bivouac in the upper reaches of the eastern branch of the Leviy Aksay glacier. One needs to cross a stream, an ancient lateral moraine, and reach the western slope of the peak. The first stage of the route involves ascending through scree, followed by a section of severely fragmented rocks. Further on lies a couloir with a slope of up to 45°. After traversing this, one reaches broken rocks. The next section consists of slabs with a steepness of up to 65°, which are ascended directly with piton belays (2–3 pitons). The rock wall, 8–10 m high, behind the slabs is bypassed on the left. This is followed by a section of easy rocks, and then a second rock wall is encountered, which is bypassed on the right. Subsequently, there's a steep snowy couloir (up to 50°), which is filled with snow and potentially avalanche-prone early in the season, thus requiring extreme caution. The first ascenders traversed it by sticking to the left side. Beyond this section, one reaches the ridge, which extends northward for 350–400 m and features several minor elevations. Initially, there's a descent to a connecting ridge with cornices hanging towards the east. Then, a small gendarme is bypassed on the left. From the connecting ridge, an ascent is made along the sharp ridge to a rock platform. The descent leads to the base of the second and third gendarmes, which are bypassed on the left via a snowy slope. Further on, one reaches the elevated part of the ridge, from which the entire path to the main summit is visible.

Peak Choibolsan (4191 m)

Western ascent — Cat. 1B (Fig. 6)

Peak Choibolsan, resembling a rock tower, is located in the watershed ridge system, in the upper reaches of the Ozernaya River valley. The northern side is covered in ice, with rock ridges approaching from three sides, connecting it to:

• the Ozernaya peak to the east,
• the unnamed "4200 m" peak to the south,
• Almaty Alagir to the west. The northern side of the massif drops off with a nearly sheer wall, whose steepness decreases somewhat at the base. Fig. 6

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. ASCENT CLASS — snow and ice.
2. ASCENT AREA — Tian-Shan, the peak is located in the main ridge of Zailiyskiy Alatau between the peaks OPTЭ and Chokan Valikhanov. To the south of the peak is the Bogatyr glacier, to the north is the Shoskalsky glacier.
3. PEAK ELEVATION — 4400 m. The route runs from the north along the Shoskalsky glacier to the OPTЭ pass, from the pass along the eastern ridge to the peak.
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 2A.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS — elevation difference: from the base of the Shoskalsky glacier to the OPTЭ pass 450 m, from the OPTЭ pass to the peak 200 m. Difficulty of individual sections — from 1B to 3A cat. diff. Average steepness of the route 25°.
6. PITONS USED — 4 ice screws for belay purposes.
7. NUMBER OF TRAVEL HOURS — from the camps under the Chekist peak (“Football field”) to the OPTЭ pass 4 hours, from the OPTЭ pass to the peak 1 hour, descent from the peak to the camps 2 hours.
8. NO OVERNIGHT STAYS are planned on the route.
9. PARTICIPANT INFORMATION — team leader Lobushkin Vladimir Nikolaevich, 1st sports category, Popov Alexander Mikhailovich, 1st sports category, Kolonogorov Alexander Valerianovich, 2nd sports category, Petrov Mikhail Nikolaevich, 2nd sports category, Prekhin Viktor Grigorievich, 2nd sports category.

I. Ice and snow class 2. Central Tian-Shan, Inylchek ridge 3. Peak "5581" (Dobroĭ voli) via the direttissima of the North face 4. Proposed category of difficulty: 6B, first ascent 5. Height difference: 1500 m, main section length: 1900 m, sections with 5-6 category of difficulty: 1250 m, average steepness of the main section: 60.5° (4000-5500 m), out of which 6 category of difficulty: 450 m, 75° (4250-4750 m) 6. Pitons used:

7. Climbing hours — 27, days — 3

Section 8

Description of the First Ascent to the summit of Beliy Pik from the Southeast (approx. Category III difficulty) (Alaarchinsky spur of Kyrgyz Ala-Too)

The first ascent was made on July 21, 1968, by two groups of Leningrad climbers from the base camp at the confluence of the Alamedin and Jyndy-su rivers. Group Composition: Kheysin D.E. (leader), MS Koltsov A.I. (leader), Naryshkin B. 1st sports category, Mikheev L.N. 1st sports category, Fedorenko Yu. 1st sports category, Yakovlev Yu.G. 1st sports category, Yakovlev Yu.V. 1st sports category.

Brief Geographical Description and General Route Characteristics

The summit of Beliy Pik is located east of Lermontov Peak on the same spur, which bounds the Dzhindy-su valley to the south. The ridges extending from the summit to the east and southeast descend towards the Alamedin valley and bound the Kок-zoo valley and glacier (name taken from Marechek's map). The route is snow and ice with short rock sections. The height of Beliy Pik is 4650 m.

Route Description

From the base camp, follow the right (here and further along the route) bank of the Alamedin River (trail) up to the first lateral valley on the right (hanging valley) (40 min). Turn right and ascend steeply up the scree, and after the inflection, continue up the moraines to the gentle tongue of the Kok-zoo glacier, where the river is hidden by moraines. Cross the center of the open glacier to a narrow, steep icefall between rocky spurs (4 hours); overnight stay on the right moraine.

I. Climbing category: — technical II. Climbing area: — Kirghizskiy Ala-Too III. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Izyiskatel' 4400 m from the North. IV. Proposed difficulty category — 2B V. Route characteristics: — height difference 670 m; complex section length 80 m; average steepness 40° VI. Pitons hammered: for belay — 4 ice screws. VII. Number of travel hours — 5; VIII. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualification: Leader: BOGOLYUBOV V.V. — 3rd sports category. Participants:

1. Ascent category — snow and ice
2. Kyrgyz Ala-Too
3. Peak Izyskatel (4400 m) via the center of the northwest face
4. Proposed category difficulty — 3B
5. Height difference — 300 m Route length — 400 m. Average steepness — 50°
6. Pitons driven — 31/0 (ice screws)
7. Climbing hours — 4.5
8. Base camp — hut near Koronsky glacier
9. Rodikov A.P. — Candidate Master of Sports

Climbing Passport

7.4114 4042 188

Ascent of Mt. Manas 4307 m. First ascent. Category I climb — combined 2. Climbing region — Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Golubina glacier area 3. Manas peak 4307 m via the North face 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, length of sections with 3–4 category of difficulty — 440 m, average steepness — 43° 6. Pitons hammered: - rock pitons: 3(0)

152. Bo­dorku Za­pad­na­ya via Za­pad­ny ridge (com­bined route, cat. 1B diff., fig. 20, 23). From Ly­chat­skie plos­chad­ki (climb 148) on the left side of Ly­chat glacier (closed cre­vasses) ap­proach Ly­chat pas­sage. From the glacier, via snow, then scree slope, fur­ther via badly dam­aged wet rocks of steep nar­row couloir as­cend to Ly­chat pas­sage, then turn right and reach Za­pad­ny ridge of Bo­dorku Za­pad­na­ya. From here, 400–500 m up­wards via easy dam­aged rocks with short sim­ple over­com­ing en route gen­darmes and rises, by­pass­ing more dif­fi­cult sec­tions via ice-snow slopes on the left. And via steep ice-snow (closed cre­vasses, cor­niche) slope of Za­pad­ny ridge as­cend to the sum­mit of Bo­dorku