Ascent Passport

1. ASCENT TYPE: rock climbing
2. ASCENT AREA: Karachay-Cherkessia, Arkhyz, upper reaches of the Aman-Auz River
3. PEAK, ROUTE: Dorbun Glavny. 3140 m. Via the South Ridge from Duritsky Pass.
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 2B, first ascent
5. ELEVATION GAIN: 320 m
   • total route length — 450 m
   • average steepness of the route — 50°
6. NUMBER OF PITOONS: ≈ 10–12 chocks
7. NUMBER OF CLIMBING HOURS: 3 (from the pass to the summit)

1. Krasnaya Polyana, Achishkho massif, Beshenka stream valley, 2.1/2008.
2. "Volchiy Zub" peak, 2190 m., SE edge.
3. Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.
4. The route is rocky.
5. Height difference: 250 m. Length: 400 m. Length of V category section: 10 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 45°.
6. No equipment left on the route.
7. Time taken: 3 hours.
8. Leader: Koshelenko Yu. — Honored Master of Sports.

Ascent

1. CLASS OF ASCENT: rock
2. ASCENT AREA: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from the Kardyvach mountain area to Marukh pass.
3. PEAK NAME AND ASCENT ROUTE: peak Velintral, ZIU M., via the right northwest counterfort.
4. ASSUMED CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY: 3B — 3B, 35 m.

• 320 m average steepness
• 550 route length: cat. diff. I 23456 m. no 203208040 no

1012

ASCENT REPORT

1. Climbing type: rock climbing.
2. Climbing area: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from Kardyvai mountain area to Marukh pass.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: VELINGRAD peak, 3110 m, via the central northwest spur.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3B category.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 310 m, average steepness — 70°,

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent type: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from the Kardyvach mountain area to Marukh Pass.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: VELINGRAD PEAK, 3160 m, via the north-eastern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 1B.
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain: 410 m, average steepness: 30° Route length:

Peak 3063 (Ayyulyu South). Route: via the eastern spur. Complexity category — 3A (combined). Team leader: A. Kuznetsov Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Irkis valley, Gabulu ridge, Ayyulyu tract Section in KMGV — 2.1.

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to peak 3063 (Ayyulyu South) as part of the climbing competition: "Third stage of the cup of NP «Sauk-Pai North Travelers Club» — «Irkis-2015»" (class "First ascents") in May 2015. Route: via the eastern spur. Complexity category — (approximately) 3A combined Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic. Mountain country: Western Caucasus. Valley: Irkis valley. Ridge: Gabulu, Ayyulyu tract. Peak: 3063 (Ayyulyu South). Route: via the eastern spur. Complexity level: 3A category (combined) (approximately). Prepared by: A. Kuznetsov, S. Zhuravlev. May, 2015.

Ayyulyu tract

The Ayyulyu tract is located in the upper reaches of the Belaya River (Ayyulyu) — a left-bank tributary of the Psysh River in the Irkis valley, on the eastern slope of the southern part of the northeastern spur of the Arkasar ridge (Gabulu ridge). The Ayyulyu tract is a pronounced mountain horseshoe formed by the southeastern and eastern spurs of the Gabulu ridge. The nodal peaks and passes of the spurs do not have official names, but each has traditional names established in guidebooks and guide-books. The mountain horseshoe of the Ayyulyu tract (from left to right):

Peak 3063 (Aiyuliu Yuzhnaya) Route: via the eastern buttress Difficulty level - 2A (2B?) Combined Leader: A. Lyapun Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Irkis valley, northeastern spur of the Arkhsar ridge (Gabul ridge), Aiyuliu tract Section in KMGV - 2.1.

Report

On the first ascent of the mountaineering route to peak 3063 (Aiyuliu Yuzhnaya) as part of mountaineering competitions: "Third stage of the cup of NP 'Sauk-Pai Club of Northern Travelers' - 'Irkis-2015'" (class "First ascents") in May 2015. Route: via the northern ridge Difficulty level - (approximately) 2A (2B?) combined

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: traverse 2. Ascent area, ridge: 2.I. Krasnodar Krai up to Marukh pass. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peaks — Bezymyannaya X — 3015 m and Bezymyannaya II — 3010 m; ridge route, combined (rocks, snow). along the NW ridge. 4. Proposed difficulty category: 3A 5. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m; average steepness 25°. 6. Pitons hammered:

February 22, 1982

ASCENT DOCUMENT

DESCRIPTION

First ascent to the peak of Akademik Kalesnik via the buttress of the eastern wall, approximately category 3B difficulty. From the base camp, located on the upper forest boundary, on the right (orographically) bank of the Amanauz River, ascend the gorge through thickets of birch, willow, raspberry, and rhododendrons. After the vegetation ends, cross to the left (orographically) bank of the Amanauz River. Then, with a gradual gain in altitude, move towards the sharp black moraine. Before reaching it, turn sharply to the right and move towards the gap in the "ram's foreheads". Ascend a wide couloir with scree and a stream to the tongue of the glacier. The glacier tongue is at an altitude of 2700–2750 m. Then, exit to the right, beyond the rocky ridge, gaining altitude, and reach a snowy slope with a steepness of 35–45°. Move straight up this snowy slope for 400 m, then exit to the left through the rocky ridge onto the glacier. Then, ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope of the glacier for 600 m on crampons. The slope's steepness is 50–55°. Move in rope teams, using the entire rope! The slope leads to the upper plateau of the glacier. The altitude of the upper plateau is 3000 m. Then, traverse 500 m across the glacier towards the wall of peak Akademik Kalesnik. The slope's steepness increases after the first 500 m and reaches 15–20° for the next 500 m. The last 100 m have a sharply increasing steepness, reaching 50–55°. In front of the wall, there is a very wide randkluft, which is a serious obstacle on the way to the wall. It is necessary to descend into the randkluft and then start working on the wall at a depth of 8–10 m from the upper edge of the randkluft.