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SummitMate

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Climbing passport for Peak 4810 in the Turkestan Range of Pamir-Alay, category of complexity 6B, first ascent in 1995.

Ascent Log

  1. Category: Technical.
  2. Region: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range.
  3. Object of ascent: Peak 4810 m.
  4. Category of difficulty: 6B (approximate), first ascent.
  5. Route description:
    • Height difference: 1050 m,
    • Length of sections: 6th category of difficulty 603 m, 5th category of difficulty 360 m, 4th category of difficulty 145 m,
    • Average slope: 78°.
  6. Pitons used:
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Description of a 6B category difficulty route to Peak 4810 m in the Turkestan Range, Pamir-Alay, climbed by Rostov climbers in 1999.

Passport

  1. Class: Technical ascents.
  2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range.
  3. Object of ascent: Peak 4810 m, Northeast wall.
  4. Difficulty category: 6B
  5. Route characteristics: Height difference: –1050 m. Route length: –1443 m. Length of sections:
    • 6th cat. diff. – 708 m.
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Description of the ascent route to the summit at 3850 m in the Turkestan Range of Pamir-Alay, difficulty category 5B, length 1276 m.

Ascent Certificate

  1. Category: Rock climbing.
  2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan ridge, Ak-su river gorge.
  3. Object: Peak 3850 m via the right edge of the NW wall (Lebedev), 5.4.3.9.
  4. 5B category of difficulty.
  5. Route length: 1276 m, including wall section (R9–R24): 552 m. Height difference: 920 m, including wall section: 500 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty: 556 m, including 5th category: 444 m.
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Description of the first ascent of the route of category 5B on Peak 3850 m via the right edge of the NW wall in the Turkestan Range, made by G. Debedev and G. Portyanko in 1988.

PASSPORT

  1. Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, Ak-Su river gorge.
  2. Peak 3850 m via the right edge of the NW wall.
  3. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
  4. Height difference 700 m, length 1310 m; Length of sections:
  • 6th category of difficulty — 102 m;
  • 5th category of difficulty — 422 m;
  • 4th category of difficulty — 150 m.
  1. Average steepness of the route — 60°.
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Description of the ascent route to the summit in the Akau river gorge on July 3, 1991 with a photograph and technical details of the shot.

General view of the summit and route. Akau river valley. July 3, 1991. 1330. "Triplet" lens 6–29. Distance 1 km. B. CAECOBA

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Report on the first ascent of Peak 3800 in the Turkestan Range via the North-Northwest wall, category 6, accomplished by a team of climbers led by Alexander Pogorelov in 1988.

I. Rock climbing category. 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkistan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge. 3. Peak 3800, via North-North-West face. 4. Proposed category 6B, first ascent. 5. Height difference 660 m, route length 911 m. Length of sections: 5–6 cat. diff. – 450 m. 6 cat. diff. – 460 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 80° (3140–3590). 6. Pitons hammered in: rock pitons 36

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Report on the first ascent of Pik Piramidal'nyy (5509 m) via the east buttress in the Pamir-Alay in 1987.

  1. Climbing category — altitude-technical.
  2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Kara-su river gorge (tributary of Karavshin river).
  3. Object of ascent — Pyramid Peak, 5509 m, via the eastern spur, combined route.
  4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Height difference — 1890 m, route length — 2520 m, including 5–6 category of difficulty — 1350 m, average steepness — 49°.
  6. Pitons driven | Rock | Bolt | Ice | Nuts | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: | | 40 | 0 | 50 | 39 |
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Ascent to Peak Piramidal'nyy via the central counterfort of the northern wall, made by the LOS DFSO trade unions team in 1989, description of the route and tactical actions.

Passport

I. Technical class. 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge (upper reaches of the Karavshin river). 3. Peak Pyramidal (5510 m) via the central counterfort of the northern wall. 4. First ascent, category VI complexity (tentative). 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 1720 m, route length: 1985 m, length of sections: 5–6 cat. diff. — 1665 m, 4 cat. diff. — 320 m, average steepness:

  1. main part of the wall — 76°, 2) rest of the route — 66 — 66°.
  1. Number of pitons used: | rock | chocks | ice |
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Description of the first ascent of Peak 5030 in the Turkestan Range via the North-Eastern ridge, category 4B difficulty.

  1. Class — technical.
  2. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Ridge, Kara-Su gorge.
  3. Peak 5030 m, via North-Eastern ridge, combined.
  4. Proposed — 4B category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Height difference — 1270 m, length 1672 m, length of sections 5 — 120 m, average steepness — 50°.
  6. Pitons driven: rock 4, ice 6, chocks 39.
  7. Climbing hours — 26, days — 2.
  8. Overnight stops — I, on the ridge, lying down.
  9. Leader: Tengiz Aleksandrovich Verulashvili, 1st sports category.
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Description of a technical ascent to the 4490 m peak in the Pamir-Alay range via the central counterfort of the north face, category 6B, completed by a team of climbers in 1989.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category — technical.
  2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range.
  3. Peak 4490 m («Ptitsa») via the central buttress of the N wall.
  4. Proposed category — 6B, first ascent.
  5. Height difference — 780 m, length — 810 m. Length of 5–6 category sections — 630 m, of which 6 category — 450 m. Average steepness — 72° (3710–4490), steepness of the wall section — 77° (3760–4390).
  6. Pitons hammered in: | Type | Primary | Additional | | :---------- | :------ | :--------- |
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